Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, just about to buy an R35 and have a few MY11s short-listed, a couple of them at Nissan dealers. Is there anything worth checking at the dealer before jumping in, particularly with regards to what they can pull from the ECU? I asked one about checking launches this week and had this response:

i asked the gtr guys about the launch control download they said its very hard to know how many launches because it dosent record them on the 2011 if you put the car into race mode thats all it will tell us and thats just data ,they said the most important is oil tems but they check those when we put the cars through the workshop anyway

All the cars I'm looking at are relatively low ks (~10,000km) and a year to run on warranty so there's always that, just interested in other thoughts on what can be checked pre-purchase. Thanks.

Few things

1. Tyre condition - check the inside wearing as depending on camber setup (street or track) the tyres may be almost gone - especially if there has been track use...

2. Trans replacements - check the back of the service manual for any new trans serial nos

3. Servicing - Make sure all the services have been done. GTR's typically do well below the kms in the log book but the services are also date dependent. I remember when I was looking at 2010 GTRs 15 months ago, most of the personal sales had ~6000-10000kms, but never followed the servicing manual and warranties were void.

4. Check the stitching on the front seats, especially around the air bags - this is a weak point depending on the size of the previous driver.

5. If its a private sale, I'd have a Nissan GTR tech check it out prior to sale - the backyard boys doing RWC's for these cars have no idea.

6. Check the paint. Anything that looks out of the ordinary (bubbles, different shades, different colours at angles compared to adjacent panels, etc) as the GTR could have been crashed or in an incident.

7. Ask the owner if a Cobb has been used or any aftermarket mods... A Cobb AP with aftermarket tunes or LC upgrades will void any warranty left on the car - that is if you car about wty - Some private sellers will swear the car is stock and never modded, but that's where Nissan can help - they will tell you if it has been flashed previously.

8. Ask if any aftermarket oils have been used. Some GTR owners use their own gear, or stock replacements like Willall, etc. This can potentially void warranties (hit n miss) in the case where transmission failure occurs, and aftermarket oil is found.

If I can think of anything else - I'll let you know.

Hi guys, just about to buy an R35 and have a few MY11s short-listed, a couple of them at Nissan dealers. Is there anything worth checking at the dealer before jumping in, particularly with regards to what they can pull from the ECU? I asked one about checking launches this week and had this response:

All the cars I'm looking at are relatively low ks (~10,000km) and a year to run on warranty so there's always that, just interested in other thoughts on what can be checked pre-purchase. Thanks.

Edited by Wardski
  • Like 1

Few things

1. Tyre condition - check the inside wearing as depending on camber setup (street or track) the tyres may be almost gone - especially if there has been track use...

2. Trans replacements - check the back of the service manual for any new trans serial nos

3. Servicing - Make sure all the services have been done. GTR's typically do well below the kms in the log book but the services are also date dependent. I remember when I was looking at 2010 GTRs 15 months ago, most of the personal sales had ~6000-10000kms, but never followed the servicing manual and warranties were void.

4. Check the stitching on the front seats, especially around the air bags - this is a weak point depending on the size of the previous driver.

5. If its a private sale, I'd have a Nissan GTR tech check it out prior to sale - the backyard boys doing RWC's for these cars have no idea.

6. Check the paint. Anything that looks out of the ordinary (bubbles, different shades, different colours at angles compared to adjacent panels, etc) as the GTR could have been crashed or in an incident.

7. Ask the owner if a Cobb has been used or any aftermarket mods... A Cobb AP with aftermarket tunes or LC upgrades will void any warranty left on the car - that is if you car about wty - Some private sellers will swear the car is stock and never modded, but that's where Nissan can help - they will tell you if it has been flashed previously.

8. Ask if any aftermarket oils have been used. Some GTR owners use their own gear, or stock replacements like Willall, etc. This can potentially void warranties (hit n miss) in the case where transmission failure occurs, and aftermarket oil is found.

If I can think of anything else - I'll let you know.

Very kind of you to supply precise details > Very wise of you Troy to follow up.

Congratulations :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
    • EMU Classic. For what I need it to do I see no reason to upgrade. Link and Haltech would both cost an extra chunk of money for a lot of unutilized features
×
×
  • Create New...