Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well I had my 180sx (R20)DET) in for a new/new clutch the other day. I got a phone call from the fella fitting the clutch, he stopped due to my crank having 2-3mm end float play! You can grab the flywheel and push the whole crank forward 2-3mm and back again! The fella who rebuilt the engine is refusing to pay...His excuse 1/ I supplied the main bearings, which he checked and ok'ed. He said the engine was tight when it went in. and 2/ Because the sump was taken off by someone else to replace the oil pump as the old one had sealant through it. He knew about this and nothing was said.

What should I do? I am thinking of giving him some time to think about it and reconsider as it is in his best interest to keep a customer happy.

Get someone (an engine builder this time) else to rebuild my engine ...AGAIN! at my expense

Or get an import RB20 (bare) put my good shit on it and save like a furoius little bugger and redo this motor up to a 2.4?

I only saw the motor being rebuilt in stages so I dunno to much about it...

Oh I wanted to see an engine rebuilt.....so badly...I guess I went to the right place.

I have spent over $5000 fixing up his previous arse up's.

The whole engine rebuild was a shomozal.

-missaligned cams he didn't know what it was so I sent it elsewhere who diagnosed ECU. Microtech fitted, THEN the cam's missaligned was found.

-sealant in oil pump and oil pick up. Cost/destroyed 3 turbo's before it was sussed out.

-when it was being rebuilt he fitted the wrong inlet manifold gasket and it was only because the water distributer under the manifold had to be fitted was it picked up....by me.

-Engine in, dipstick and tube on the bench???? I picked it up, "Who's is this?" "Oh thats yours...."

-Asking me (not a mechanic who stripped the engine) where all the hoses went.

This is the crap I went through for a year and it is still going.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42614-rebuilt-rb20-broken/
Share on other sites

Hi OMP, crankshaft end float is caused by worn thrust bearings, you can replace them without removing the engine from the car. Take off sump, remove main bearing craddle, and rotate the half moon shaped thrust bearings (2) in. They will push (rotate) the worn ones out at the same time. Done it a few times, works a charm. It is sometimes casused by the clutch having too much thrust. If you replace the clucth thrust plate it may not happen again.

Hope that helps

Thanks sydneykid, being in a 180sx I don't think there is room to swing your cat to get in there..... The clutch I had in there was an Exedy HD clutch and to destroy bearings within 2000km's? But I suppose too the sealant pump er um oil pump that I had in there could of contributed to the cause.

The new clutch I have, as this one was slipping is a ceramic cushioned clutch with 1050kg pressure plate, will this cause a problem? Note this clutch has not been fitted yat as this was when they discovered the fault. I am worried that with the crank moving backward and forward it may have been scored.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just trying to get my head around this. At 5psi of boost, you turn on your wmi pump, and then you're using a 3000cc injector, to allow flow upto the actual engine, where you have your 6x200cc injectors and a 500cc injector. If the above is correct, what advantage are you obtaining by having the 3000cc injector blocking flow, is this just incase a line breaks between that injector and the motor you can stop flow immediately? Or are the 6x200cc and 500cc less injectors and just spray nozzle?
    • Welcome! New member myself, but I had an R33 back in 2002. Best advice I could give, based on my experience: if you're running the factory turbo, be very conservative with boost. I made the mistake of just fiddling around with the boost controller and cranking the boost for fun, and the end result was my intake pipes popping off frequently from the constant deluge of oil that was being blown into the recirc by the stressed-out turbo, which itself was siphoning oil from the engine and farting it out both sides of its centre bearing (or something to that effect). If I could do it all again, I would have gotten a new turbo and had a tune dialled in professionally and then just left it alone! Funny you mention the metal shavings in the gearbox, as I had the same thing - the probe plug (magnetic drain plug, essentially) would come out caked with shavings. At least it was doing its job. Not sure if that's just sacrificial wear and part of the deal, or if my gearbox was shagged, but I wasn't abusing it. Enjoy the R33 - they're a dying breed, and if they weren't $35k+ on CarSales in Queensland, I might have picked up one of those again, instead of the 370GT I own now (though I'm loving the 370GT, that big 3.7L V6 just hits different).
    • Howdy folks. I owned an R33 back in 2002, which was thoroughly beyond my capacity (financially speaking) to maintain/insure, so we parted ways in 2004. Fast forward 21 years (to literally yesterday, in fact) and I'm now the proud owner of a 2007 V36 370GT. I'm happily surprised by how much power the VQ37VHR makes, compared to the RB25DET, considering the latter is turbocharged. I had planned to add a turbo at some point but I'm on the fence about whether I'll even need it (though I do love the sudden onset of extra torque). Any other 370GT owners around the traps, I'd love to hear about your experiences with this car (good and bad).
    • Perhaps the answer is... more jacks!* *proper jacks must be used.  
    • I NEVER think about using a scissor jack unless there is absolutely no other alternative. f**king things are dangerous, annoying and stupid.
×
×
  • Create New...