Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,
Its been a while since I've been on.
Due to recent medical bills the time has come to sell my pride and joy
Everything on this car has been done to the highest standard.
No shortcuts taken.
EOI:
2003 v35 350GT 6mt
First Australian Owner with Import papers (Standard when imported)
3x factory keys - Extremely rare (2x car keys, 1x valet key)
Factory optioned Brembos (r34gtr)
Self active mirrors (fold in when locked and show the gutter when reversing)
Electric everything
Factory security upgrade
Black security glass rear
Tinted front to match
Pop up screen (been modded for Australian TV plus still shows car data)
Aftermarket everything
Almost every adjustable arm on the market
Custom airrex suspension
Modified to lay rail (custom modified shocks)
Accuair management including e-level (only system which meets ADR)
Has remotes to control Air Suspension
Genuine Plastic bodykit made from 3x kits (inven front, impul sides, nismo rear pods)
Carbon fibre rear diffuser
Carbon fibre custom ducktail boot
Carbon fibre roof wing
Carbon fibre front splitter/lip
Aftermarket front grill (Colour coded)
Nismo clear sidemarkers
Shaved drivers door lock (no key locks out outside of car for clean look)
Rare JDM harness cover
Exedy Heavy Duty Clutch (bites hard)
Aftermarket Swaybar
Aftermarket Alarm (sensitive - with immobiliser)
Underground Racing Lightweight Racing Pulleys (Underdriven)
Brand new Battery
New Alternator
Guards Professionally rolled and flared
Carbon craft mirror lense
07 JDM headlights - with Factory Hid Ballasts
07 JDM tail lights (with remote boot release wired in)
Japan Flashed ECU
Custom mounted airbag controls (hidden)
Custom air install with 2x 5 gallon tanks
2x viair compressors
Work 20x10.5 wheels all round
Also another set of Leonnhardritt 19x10 19x11 wheels
116ks I think? Cant drive atm haven't looked.
Serviced regularly, always maintained and kept to a high standard.
Shitloads more.

Have almost all standard parts too!
Not separating, anything.
THROW ME AN OFFER.
Looking around 42k ono

post-53482-0-87360000-1370494203_thumb.jpg

post-53482-0-57710400-1370494227_thumb.jpg

post-53482-0-44637400-1370494248_thumb.jpg

post-53482-0-32842500-1370494277_thumb.jpg

post-53482-0-34860500-1370494295_thumb.jpg

post-53482-0-85484500-1370494311_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/426512-eoi-airbagged-v35-for-sale/
Share on other sites

Thanks guys.

Yeah sorry most certainly not parting it especially with my current condition. I cant lift over a kilo or drive it so... parting is a no go, plus ive had about 3 people shotgun the suspension. haha.

I'm ONO on the price and i can let you know as most of you would none of these parts are cheap. The air suspension cost near 8k alone before the custom install

Throw an offer tell your friends whatever you need, but i need it gone.

Nothing needs to be done. Can daily drive which I did right up until my surgery.

Its reliable has driven to Sydney and back multiple times and I've never had a problem

I never intending on selling it but Health first.

Every part is top Quality.

Most bushes have even been replaced too.

  • 1 month later...
  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Take the value it measured as, and pick the closest range available that is above the reading on the screen.   Also, no point just testing the coils. Read what has been said again. You need to test all your wiring, everything.
    • Does the scanner do all the CUs in the car, or only the ECU?
    • @666DAN sorry to bring you and old thread.     I've got my de+t done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.    Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd when selected . But nothing when in  drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic. I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Do ya have any ideas?     Cheers man
    • Well I recently changed my rear axles and was thinking if I bumped anything, I have been driving the car for a while now though... But it has been raining today so everything is wet under the wheel arches. Brakes feel fine and can't hear any of the metal screamers, I had a squeak coming from one of the handbrake drums but that seems to have gone away a while ago. I was going down a hill when it lit up and I did feel the abs bite for a second and question why it did it?
    • Correct. Um. I dunno. I haven't cared enough about the way that the NA cars work to know for sure. But..... The 33/34 turbo manual cars have an electronic speed sensor in the gearbox that outputs a +/- (ie, sawtooth AC) voltage signal. That is connected to the speedo. The speedo then outputs a 0-5v square wave (ie, PWM) signal that the ECU (and any other CU on the bus) sees. The speed sensor is NOT directly connected to the ECU. So here's the problem. Your new ECU expects to see the PWM signal, but must somehow be getting a direct signal from the diff speed sensor. Which would suggest that the wiring of the NA car is not the same as the turbo cars. I think you will need to spend some time with (hopefully the wiring diagram for the car) and a multimeter to see what is connected to what. Then, presuming I am correct**, you would then want to separate the ECU speed signal input from the rest of the car's wiring, and probably either buy a speed signal converter, or build one using an arduino (or similar). That would take in the speed sensor signal and output a scaled (and suitably rearranged) signal for the ECU. ** We shouldn't presume that I am correct here, because there might be something else crazy going on. I don't think you could convert the speedo to be fed from the gearbox sensor, because the pulse rate from that sensor is probably different to the diff sensor and then the speedo would read wrongly. And this also wouldn't fix the ECU's problem either, because the ECU doesn't want to see the gearbox signal direct either (assuming that they are all on the same wiring, for some odd NA related reason, see above caveat!) Does this help? Probably not. Can you make it work? Almost certainly. With the above work. You should buy a handheld oscilloscope from Aliexpress so that you can view these signals directly. Connect up the probes and drive the car. Show photos of the screen when drving at known speeds and connected to different places, and we'll see what we can learn about it.
×
×
  • Create New...