Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone! Thank you for reading this post.

I apologize if the thread is misplaced or if this topic has been covered before, but I couldn't find the answers to my questions.

I am desperately looking for some help to solve some audio issues I've been having.
Long story short, I live in Japan and I drive a V35 ('01). I love the car but the audio panel is dying. I first went to a Nissan dealership where the guy told me it would cost 550$+ to fix it without any guarantee (if it breaks again 2 days later, it's on me). I asked the audio guy at my usual auto repair shop, and he told me the best way would be to convert it to a single or double din after market system.
But, he said it would cost me 2000$+ to do the job right, which is way too expensive IMO (I know for a fact that it's a cultural thing for Japanese to talk big numbers hoping to scare customers away when they come with requests they are not comfortable with).
So I'm left with no other choice but to do it myself, and I hope someone here will take the time to answer my questions.

Here are my specs, and a picture of my dash:
_2001 V35 sedan
_Base (not Bose) system with navigation
_No remote control on the steering wheel


20130530_132244.jpg

1)_ Would a used Stagea(M35)/Skyline(V35) panels fit in my car? (cf. picture below)
They sell many of these on Yahoo auctions and they all look the same to me. Would the a/c panel be compatible?

V
arp9951jp-img600x450-1370938713ao8okj669

2)_ What's the difference between the "beat-sonic" type expensive harness and the cheap and simple "Crutchfield" audio harness?
Can I use the cheap one or do I need to spend 200$ on a special harness?

adapter-nsa-03a.gif OR 7e1963c3-b1d6-480a-aa97-abba18a20274.jpg


I am sorry for the stupid questions, I don't have much knowledge when it comes to car audio. I did however take the dash apart once (out of curiosity), so I believe I can do this mod.

Spending 2 hours a day on the road without a working audio system is getting really annoying, I need to find a solution asap.
Any help would be greatly appreciated! :D

Yes the dash you have is a common failure.

Yes you can change to the dual din and go aftermarket, which is probably the better option. M35 Stagea, V35 and the US G35 are all interchangeable.

My suggestion is to look in the V35 specific section above and search for the faults and remedies, as there have been many threads on the subject already.

M35 panel , yes use that. Beatsonic item , use that use the radio of your choice and you are done. The beatsonic part is the CORRECT part fore job. The metra lead will give noise and volume issues AND you will lose the nav audio.

Questions , ask. This is what I work on daily. The panel problem is a design fault with the unit. They all do it .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...