Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

For pics etc, click the ebay link....

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nissan-Skyline-GTR-32-Twin-Turbo-5sp-Manual-RB26-/161044162558?pt=AU_Cars&hash=item257efae7fe&_uhb=1

Up for regretful sale is my beloved GTR 32 which makes 300KW at the wheels. All work and servicing was done by Creatd Motorsports in Campbellfield, and suspension work done by Centerline in Thomastown.

List of mods/work done are as follows:
Power FC with hand controller in car
Race tuned and dyno
N1 upgrade Steel wheel turbo's boosted 20psi on high 14 on low
Nismo twin plate clutch
Cam gears
Exhaust (Also have 1x 3inch Stainless catback off my old R33 gtst, another 5 or 6inch GTR catback exhuast and R34 Nizmo rear if anyone interested)
Upgraded radiator
Pod filters (Im pretty sure i still got original airbox in garage somewhere if anyone wants it)
Z32 Airflow meters
Carbon fibre brake pads
DBA slotted brake discs
TE 37 Type 17inch Alloy wheels (from Just Jap Sydney)
Tien Adjustable suspension changed a few years back
All bushes underneath changed a few years back
Momo steering wheel/pedals/gear knob
All fluids/oil throughout and spark plugs where replaced a few months ago so it doesnt need a service for a while. Also all heater/radiator and turbo hoses were changed a few years back along with coilpacks when i was upgrading the car as i wanted it to be reliable.
Sadly the only problem with the car is the seals on one of the turbo's has decided to go so it blows some white smoke but its not bad. It is a very easy fix and will only cost $1250 (check ebay item number 120740235220) It is a very quick car and has been extremely reliable. Otherwise its a very clean car with no rust at all and its sure to impress. A real head turner!
Im not sure whats the go with rwc and the power fc, so its something you will need to organize yourself if you know a mechanic. RWC will not be supplied. Otherwise it is in roadworthy condition -good tyres, no oil leaks, brakes good, no chips in windscreen etc. Rego is till 14th July 2013.
When i bought this car about 7 years ago i paid $23,000 and have put alot of love and work into it (approx 16K)which is why im starting the auction at $23,000 (No Reserve! First to click will buy!) as i realize Rego is nearly due and cost of turbo seal replacement hassle, otherwise this is easily a 30K car. There is no comparison between other "cheaper" 32 GTR's!
There is literally nothing more needed to be done/serviced on this car, simply change turbo seals and away you go!
Reason for sale is i am about to purchase an R34 GTR. :-D
Viewing & Pickup is in Lalor, Melbourne 3075
Cash or Bank Cheque on pickup only
0415 176 014 Erno
No time wasters please.
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/426864-melb-gtr-32-for-sale/
Share on other sites

For those that have asked - compression test was done and everything was good. Mechanic has confirmed it is just nothing but a leaky seal so a bit of oil goes into exhaust and its def not a blown turbo, so there is no cause for concern. Still boosts no problem.

Open to reasonable offers for quick sale as i want to get my 34GTR!!!

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...