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Garrett dash 5 core very good condition $400

Rb26dett block no cracks etc $250

Rb26 complete head with adjustable cam gears ready to bolt onto block complete with covers timing belt coilpacks exhaust manis dumps $1000

Rb26 intake plenum $120

Rb26 brand new water pump new in the box $60

N1 water pump only done around 1000kms $70

Rb26 r33 crank long snout came from running car $350

Rb26 r33 crank came from running motor as it had low compression$170

R33 Gtr rb26 standard ecu $80

Twin turbo pipe $50

Rb26 diff modified to suit rwd $150

R32 Gtr turbo x1 complete $40

Rb26 balancer small chip but is still fine $30

Rb26 turbo oil and water lines $40

Rb26 engine brackets $20

Rb26 idle reg $50

Rb26 rods $40

Rb26 pistons $50

R33 Gtr Coilpack harness great condition $50

Rb26 Coilpack valley cover painted wrinkle red with near new ornament plate from 34 Gtr $100

R32 Gtr air con condenser $50

Many more engine parts available turbo lines etc

Gold Coast

0487924497

Please text or call

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    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
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