Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As part of my upgrade I'm installing a single large fuel pump rather than 2 pumps in parallel.

Most aftermarket ECUs can output a PWM signal based on selected parameters (eg injector duty, rpm, manifold pressure etc).

My question is what is used to switch off and on the pump? I see Motec has a purpose built dual half bridge amplifier for such a duty.

http://www.motec.com.au/dhb/dhboverview/

This is only rated at 20A continuous which may be inadequate for this pump at full speed.

Can a solid state relay be used or will this not be up to the task of switching at many times per second that the PWM signal will request?

Cheers

Gav

http://aeromotiveinc.com/products-page/accessories-electronics/16306-billet-fuel-pump-speed-controller/

Pricey but rated to 40A.

What pump are you using and whats the maximum current draw.

Fuelab pumps have built in PWM contollers. They just require a 500 - 1500Hz input.

Thanks Kitto - these are quite crude and only have a high/low switch point. I think they also require an old style tach signal from the coil.

I'm using an Aeromotive Eliminator pump - not sure of the maximum draw.

Surely someone here must have set up a PWM output to control a fuel pump .

Thanks Simon

I have one of the Eliminator Stealth kits on the way which will let me easily construct a "pump in surge tank" setup similar to the Sard tank I had previously.

After speaking with more people it seems that a simple high quality SSR will do the trick.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What did the rear look like before repaint from the "rich idle"?
    • I know that smallbox is not great but as i said it will be for a limited time and iam not going to get crazy. But thanks...i just want to know if i can use that clutch and not have "problems" 
    • No no. The Audi boost controller was made from a Norgren (or equivalent) 1/4" pneumatics pressure regulator, a similar (looking) relief valve (to create the "gated" function to keep the boost off the actuator until wanted) and a check valve plumbed in parallel with those two, to relieve the boost back out of the wastegate line after the boost event was over. It was the inclusion of that check valve, used sort of "backwards" as a relief valve, that was the stroke of genius that made the rest of it work nice. The only reason I stoped using it was because it was like any other manual/pneumatic boost controller - it's settings changed from season to season. The Profec is much more consistent winter to summer.
    • A couple of months of gentle driving will be fine. There is a risk that you will kill it. A heavy workout will probably kill 3rd gear. Continued use will wreck the input shaft bearing.
    • That's because R34 RB25DET is a pull clutch gearbox. I have that clutch, behind 25Neo, in front of R33 gearbox. I have brand new R34 turbo gearbox, in a box (cardboard) in the shed right now, and it will be getting used with the same engine and clutch, because I also have, in a much smaller box next to it, the front plate to convert the new box to push clutch.
×
×
  • Create New...