Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I cant delete it :( i was just merely saying u might get a job there with thise "deadly" skills lol..

Lol dont stress man, like i said you would have to be unlucky to get a report on it BUT naming names etc is a touchy subject ;)

Yer thats fair enough :) my biggest downfall i dont think before i yap :P

Lolz, dont worry i do the same! You get a window to "edit" your post once its up! If you say something and think it was too much you can always get a mod to delete or edit it for you!

Pretty good forum, better than ones i have been on in the past that is for sure!

Now get some pics up of this thing you are building?

For sure im away in sydney on hollidays but as soon as im home pics will be up fo sure :)

If its something you have taken progress photos of and will continue to do then you can start a build thread on here too!

If not, just post em up in here so we can have a look :yes:

Lol build me a low line trailer! Pm me a price man! Am serious lol.

as for Pitts that's who I would have recommended for sure! Seen quality no nonsense results from them and am told the guy is a champ too

My 33 gtst makes 330rwkw with a gt3582r. Starts to build boost around 3500rpm, once it hits 4000rpm is when it sits you back in your seat. Mine made that at 20psi. The boost curve on the dyno printout I have is a bit stuttery but it feels like it holds boost perfectly when youre driving it, i think its since been fixed (its a year old and from previous owner). It has a 38mm turbosmart ultragate, ide go 45mm if I was building it as they seem to not have as much issues with lower boost because they are a larger gate.

  • Like 1

My 33 gtst makes 330rwkw with a gt3582r. Starts to build boost around 3500rpm, once it hits 4000rpm is when it sits you back in your seat. Mine made that at 20psi. The boost curve on the dyno printout I have is a bit stuttery but it feels like it holds boost perfectly when youre driving it, i think its since been fixed (its a year old and from previous owner). It has a 38mm turbosmart ultragate, ide go 45mm if I was building it as they seem to not have as much issues with lower boost because they are a larger gate.

Is that on pump fuel?

Is that on pump fuel?

Yeah Pump 98.

Some more info:

Standard motor, 750cc Siemens injectors, custom fuel rail, bosch 044 & warlbro 255(intank). Power FC

These turbos can produce huge numbers. If youre just seeking 300kw-ish go for a gt3076r. You can make that power and have more response.

p.s. I have heard mixed reviews about Slide Industry turbos. Let your tuner know its not a Garrett as they might just assume. Just passing on what ive read not bagging the brand or trying to start a cuffufle lol.

Edited by Bennis

Don't you go picking on the lil 3076 Mr Bennis, I made 35r numbers with mine with epic response hehe....

Actually, can you send me your dyno sheet when u get a chance?

I was actually trying to talk up the 3076r, you know I want one!! haha

Ill find a pic, there was one the seller gave me.

Here we are, as you can see its a fair bit more laggy then your 3076r results.

cp4979387782421508755.jpg?height=700&asp

Looks like a tad over 23psi man :yes:

Pros and cons on slide industry turbos kgo :)

They are just Chinese copies... So why bother?

If you are on a budget - Hypergear or Kando. If you want better performance then the Garretts and more recently the HTA/FP items are becoming quite popular now results are coming out

They are just Chinese copies... So why bother?

If you are on a budget - Hypergear or Kando. If you want better performance then the Garretts and more recently the HTA/FP items are becoming quite popular now results are coming out

Lol... Good to see you following the trend Mr Ash... Only 2 of us running them on a 25 so far that I know of and both just shy of 400kw with super response :yes:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...