Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone, the missus reversed our stagea into something and insurance company has written it off,

Its a 2000 model RS4 Dayz. Overall car is excellent with the only damaged parts being the rear bar and both left hand doors. Engine not available as i got this wicked idea of fitting it into a Patrol :) Full black leather interior, electric seats with heating function, Carbon fibre exterior trims and rear view mirrors.

Parts located in Ballarat, Victoria, inbox for parts requests or post up here..... Who car, minus engine available for purchase for $4000obo.

Stay tuned for a list of parts and prices as we are currenty trying to work out what thins are worth.

post-88715-0-57735900-1371874376_thumb.jpg

post-88715-0-64108300-1371874402_thumb.jpg

post-88715-0-23249200-1371874501_thumb.jpg

Edited by RSFOURDayz

Hey mate, couple of inquiries:

How much for side strips?

How much for center console leather trimmed lid? (the one between the seats.)

What carbon trims does it have apart from the cargo window garnish? I may be interested in some or all of them, so post prices.

I work remotely and have trouble pm'ing for some reason whilst I'm away so feel free to SMS me on

ofour 2three 9.fourseven 4two4

Harts.

OK SOME PRICES ON MAIN STUFFS



Front Dayz Bar - excellent - $450

Front Reo $120

Tiptronic Auto - excellent condition $500

Bonnet - excellent conidtion $450

Rear tail lights - $60 on t/gate - RH corner light $80

Door mirror l n r with carbon cover $100

Full leather interior, electric controls and heating $600

Main headlights, xenon - $200 each

Grille Lights - $80 each

Grille - XC - $150

Main window switch $80

Combo switch $60

Rear Dayz Wing $180

your carpets, do they have stagea badges on them? if so, pics and price possible please?

the carpet ,ates do yes, but not th actual car carpet

how much for the wheels - ive got a s1 stag and a dent in the front wheel that wont pass RWC

im in vic so nice and easy to collect from you asap :)

cheers

Pete

Unsure on compression ratio at the minute but its done 140,000, runs very well, no problems with coil packs or anything like that. Chasing 2,000 for complete engine

He peeps... Just a heads up to anyone in Melbourne, we are heading to Bulla for the day in the northern suburbs so if anyone wants anything brought to Melbourme let me before Friday night. Cheers

SOLD SO FAR......

INTERIOR,

WHEELS,

CARBON MIRRORS, CARBON TRIMS,

LH TAILGATE LIGHT

LOCK SET AND ETAX MODULE

STRUT BRACE

STILL MANY PARTS LEFT

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Put a fuel pressure gauge on it. Replace the turbos. Probably completely separate issues.
    • What copper washer do you guys use on the bleeder bolts? The existing one I have I had no idea where to find it in a local store, I did buy some online but that are only 1mm thick whereas my old one is 2mm+ thick and when I put the new washer out and squeeze the top radiator hose I can hear a bit of air but not with the old one. Does this matter? The new one doesn't leak, but the inner diameter is a bit loose whereas the old one threads on the bolt.
    • Howdy all, after being out a few weeks ago on a spirited drive in my GTR I have 2 issues that oddly have appeared at the same time. Whilst accelerating quickly through the gears all of a sudden i’ve lost power at the top of third gear (below redline around 6000rpm) for no obvious reason.    From that point onwards the car has been running rich on idle, won’t really rev under load without a ton of black smoke and the odd backfire, and dying as a pull up to a set of lights unless I keep the revs up around 1500rpm. In addition when shutting down the car that same night (I was 10 minutes from home) I noticed one of the turbos was significantly noisy on wind down when shutting off the engine. After letting the car cool down overnight it starts up fine, although once it gets to temp the revs start to creep up and down, the exhaust is darker than it should be and it also sounds like it’s running rich (fat note) I’ve put a new set of plugs in it - no change, the old plugs all seemed OK with two of them being somewhat richer/fueled up than the other 3 with 1 being borderline. I’ve smoked tested the intake system via the front of the Turbos, found a split vacuum hose going to the factory boost gauge sender, which I have since replaced.  Also found another leak on the gasket coming off the rear turbo outlet, have also replaced this. After fixing both of these leaks - still have the running rich issue. I’ve also tried another pair of AFM’s - no change here After pulling off the front turbo intake pipes, there is obvious shaft play in the front turbo, which now hisses loudly on light revvs although I can’t see why this would make the car run funny even under idle. I’m curious to know why it’s running rich before I potentially replace/rebuild turbos. The car is completely stock <50,000kms  other than an exhaust. Oil and coolant are all clear. I haven’t bothered with coil packs as it looks like they won’t be the issue due to condition of the plugs. Any help appreciated as I cry myself to sleep!
    • No probs at all. I used to love trying to dig up obscure info for those in need where possible going back 20+ years on SAU.  I did have another look and couldn't come up with any closer match. I'm leaning towards those skirts in your first pic are custom fitments, cut down/extended or from another car entirely and modded to fit an R34 sedan. I would've thought someone in Japan had them and taken a photo at some stage over the last 2 decades but there's nothing. Someone out there must know surely.
×
×
  • Create New...