Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello SAU

Car: r34 1999 4 door rb25de

Issue:

When I use the auto 'full up' switch on the drivers window, it will roll back down to 3/4 up 90% of the time.

Is this a safety feature for arms or stuff stuck in the window path when the auto up is triggered, and my window somehow thinks there is an obstruction? (there is no obstruction that I can see)

Is there any way to turn this off? (eg cut some of the wires?)

I have attempted to search this issue with no success.

Thanks in advance

Josh

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/427762-r34-auto-window-switch-roll-down/
Share on other sites

I would be checking the action of the mechanism, and spraying some dry lube on the tracks to fix it. I doubt its as simple as a wire snip to fix it, because it relies on sensing excess current going to the motor.

I have the same issue.

I opened up the driver side door and looked inside the window cavity and noticed that my window is not rolling up straight. When i try to open my window using the auto feature when the door is open, the window goes crazy since there is no frame, and it opens all weird like it's going to fall out :\

I've noticed the rubber around my driver side door where the window hits is worn out too, and at one time was falling off. I kind of just pushed it back on.

I don't use the auto 'full up' switch anymore... but when i want to roll it up fully, i have to SLIDE the window back towards the rear of the car, then roll it up.

Yes, my window SLIDES :\

Not sure if this is the same issue as you, but if it's not, sorry to hijack the thread lol.

#@suwidji

Turns out that what you said about the window coming up in an angle was EXACTLY the issue. I pulled / lifted my window and it has massive play up/down on one side, like its not bolted down to the rail. 20mm movement on one side so I assume this is the only problem.

Thanks!

#@suwidji

Turns out that what you said about the window coming up in an angle was EXACTLY the issue. I pulled / lifted my window and it has massive play up/down on one side, like its not bolted down to the rail. 20mm movement on one side so I assume this is the only problem.

Thanks!

glad you know what's wrong with it!

Do you by any chance know how to fix it? Or who to go to, to get it fixed?? I've been dealing with this problem for a while and it's kind of embarassing when i want to roll up my window, because I have to slide the window back haha.

haven't had time to pull off the door card and fix it. I assume the vibration caused the bolts to loosen, this has happened before in my crapshack S chassis cars.

I'll take a photo when it's all done and fixed to give you an idea what it all looks like. should be simple.

thanks again for the idea

Just an update,

I took my door card apart and found this at the bottom!

20130705_193044_zps48f3aa2c.jpg

There's also a small hole in the bottom right corner of the window where i believe this part fits in. BUT I think there's more to this part than just putting it back in. Should there be a guide that slots into the guide rail inside? There is one on the left side of the window, So i'm just assuming it should be the same for the right. These are the only 2 parts I could find inside the actual door card though, so either the rest is lost, or can someone tell me how to put this back on??

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Ok, just an update.

I found the tracking mechanism was still inside the guide rail, but at the very bottom, So i didnt even realise on first inspection.

When i found it, i placed the 2 window guides back on (those 2 circle things i posted earlier), and it worked fine again and my window stopped sliding around!!! :D

BUT then today, the bloody window went nuts. I wound the window all the way down and back up to see if it was a 1-time thing... to notice my bloody tinting was scratched off!!!! I was NOT happy :rant:

Got home, took the door card apart and found out the guides had fallen off and the screw that held them in was scraping against the window (which caused the tint to rip off!!!)

I then realised i put the guides on wrong. The one with the thread should have gone on the side of the window closest to the outer panel of the car, not the one closest to the inside cabin of the car.

Now i need a new tint :down:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Got my R34 gearbox around 4-5 weeks ago. Came into some extra $$ recently and after I cleaned the mess off the notes, I thought, might as well buy that R34 box I've been pondering.  In that time I've pulled the engine out, replaced rod and mains bearings, done a few other engine things that are much easier with the engina out eg PRP oil pump upgrade, replacing wastegate coolant lines, installing Turbosmartass turbo oil pressure reg, made some mounting brackets for some of my mods that are "hard to reach", converted the R34 box to R33, put the engine and new gearbox back in the car. Plus cleaning ...Oh my god so much cleaning when doing such a project. Yep I'm a busy bee, buzz buzz. As part of the gearbox project, researched posts and found this thread (In which i nailed it for the OP), hence the post here # logical thinking.. Not all about you old boy, SOrrryyy. Dare I ask,  how's yours going ,> Or you got it done yet, and if so why didn't you post any of the tips I posted to help other members? ???      
    • Seems to be the case mate , still an OK price for a grey import.
    • I’m interested in the carbon diffuser fins and Toshiba MFD screen replacement if they’re still available.
    • @GTSBoy yeah i know it was not the "great" idea but it is and option...but i think i will stay on no BoV rather then trying to make it work with "half" this and that. But that GReddy FV2 is cool...i like that you can make it like stock if you want (and have/make the custom pipes) For other thanks! it was alot of information. But for the sound...a dont rly "like" both of them...specialy if they are loud...but if i "must" choose i would rather have little whooosh rather than sutututu with no BoV....BUT that is what is i gonna get. So for the all info i gather. In my case:  No BoV is not that bad cuz it is stock...and iam used to put N/clutch right after rpms are around 1000 so it should be ok...just need to avoid "big" drops. But i do not have the engine in the car so i do not really know how "bad" or good it is. But as i had that little test drive it looked ok. The atmo BoV should be worse car would dump to much fuel specialy between the shifts...so without proper tune/ECU i dont want that. BUT with that...car should drive ok with no problems right? (i do like there is less piping wih this solution) 🙂 
    • Usually an RB20 won't stay in closed loop idle anyway. The O2 sensor gets too cold, stops swinging.
×
×
  • Create New...