RB25DET: Changing the Spark Plugs

[Tony de Wonderful]

I'd recommend a torque wrench to make up the spark-plugs.

They don't cost that much compared with a stripped thread.

[Tony de Wonderful]

I'd recommend a torque wrench to make up the spark-plugs.

They don't cost that much compared with a stripped thread.

[Tony de Wonderful]

I'd recommend a torque wrench to make up the spark-plugs.

They don't cost that much compared with a stripped thread.

[c34Florry]

^^as above.. grasping at straws but any chance we could get the pictures back?

[c34Florry]

No? No pictures?

[Ben C34]

Changing plugs is heaps easy. If you need pictures you probably shouldn't be actually doing it.

[c34Florry]

...and learn nothing? Thats how you get through life is it? Just never done it on anything post 1977.. something tells me procedures may have changed 30 years on. Not afraid to just give it a go but anything to make a job easier is worth asking about. I have no doubt you have the knowledge but no need to be so arrogant about it. Didnt know forums had a Dont know, don't ask, dont try policy

Edited July 23, 2014 by c34Florry

[MickEdge]

Changing plugs is heaps easy. If you need pictures you probably shouldn't be actually doing it.

a mate and this thread taught me to change the plugs in my rb,

everyones at a different point on a learning curve, you at one point didnt know how to either so no need to be a wank about it.

nevertheless i use bcpres-11 gapped at 1.1mm

works plenty fine for me and actually fixed a misfire issue so yeah, happy hunting!

[adamRB]

When i removed the plastic cover covering the loom and plugs, the seal around the plastic cover was really brital and broke off, i assume its for sealing off any water intake so next question is has anybody had this same issues and how did you replace it. Also th metal peice that hold the ports for the coils to plug into was broken? Where the fourth screw belongs i dunno if its supposed to be like that or no? Also just thought id add that th plugs i removed were NGK R- PFR5G-11 a bit different i thought.

Cheers if anyone can help

Heres a pic of the metal part that is broken

Edited September 20, 2014 by adamRB

[Ben C34]

It's supposed to be like that.

I wouldn't worry about the seal. Just don't fill it up with water.

I don't use the cover at all.

[suwidji]

yeh, the sides of my valleycover were really brittle the first time i changed my plugs, and broke off. Not an issue though, and as previously said, just dont go about pouring water over your engine lol.

Never took the metal bit out that held the coils:\ didn't even know there was one lol. Arent the coils just screwed down with 2 screws?

Also, as said, use a torque wrench to prevent threading lol. I slightly threaded one of mine, not causing any issues but really careful now when i change em (i still dont use a torque wrench oops)

[oxford1327]

torque settings for spark plugs in an alloy head should be no more than  23NM maximum, when brand new plug this will give proper crush gasket "squish" and ensure a good seal without damage to the plug or the head.

this torque setting doesn't seem like much but a preset plug tool can be purchased through specialist suppliers that sell to motorcycle mechanics and or speedway enthusiasts, i have a KINCHROME branded one for my 2 stroke race bikes and it has saved me a fortune in replacing cnc machined heads from being stripped when they are over $2500 per cylinder head and you have 4!