Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

I have recently upgraded from a B18CR integra to a 330wkw R33 sedan with an RB26DETT drivetrain conversion.

Unfortunately in my 2nd day of ownership a high boost pull combined with wheelspin destroyed the oil pump and the car lost oil pressure!

Quickly turned the engine off, and there was nothing foreign in the oil, so I think I have saved the engine from serious damage!

A crank collar and N1 oil pump had recently been installed, as the original one had cracked due to the small engagement.

It seems as though even that was not strong enough!

I am now in the process of saving up until I can take the car to RIPS and get the repairs done.

My research shows me that I will not be let down by them, and I would rather spend more money to get it done right, than have to do this all again a second time!

Basically I am looking to get the following work done, so that I will be able to use the power without risking breakages, and also be able to take it to the track on occassion!

Tomei oil pump

Enlarged capacity/baffled oil sump

New main & rod bearings

Balanced rods

Piston rings

Replace worn oil/water lines

1.5mm oil restrictor

Head gasket

Head studs

Timing belt

Water pump

Tensioner

Catch can setup

Adjustable cam gears

Retune

Oil pressure switch

Based on the hours and hours of reading I've done, I believe that the above will go a long way to making this a reliable RB26! It should have more potential for power, and the mods will give me peace of mind that my oil pressure isn't up the piss while I'm beating on it around the track!

The current mods to the RB26 are a pair of Garrett GT2860-9s, 770cc injectors, and a Link G4 ECU.

It would be good to know what people think this combination should be capable of putting out once the above modifications have been done!

Anyway, glad to be a member and all your comments, thoughts, and recommendations are greatly appreciated!

skylinetrademe_zps07d73ac0.jpg

Edited by Jazzadub
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/429319-new-r32-owner-from-nz/
Share on other sites

Thanks man!

You probably have an RB26 in your 32 I suppose?

Do you have any experience with rectifying the oil system failings? Does my list look like it should cover everything off?

im now running an rb30.

there is a massive topic in the forced induction thread regarding oil control for rbs.

have a good read(I think 60 pages from memory).

read the first and last couple, should give you the jist.

  • 6 months later...

RIPS have had the car for a few months now, and the build has turned from a repair in to a full on overhaul.

I'll let the images I have selected speak for themselves!

RIPS enlarged sump

post-115803-0-43751700-1391412635_thumb.jpg

Second hand R33 block all freshened up

Standard pistons and rods

Rods have new ARP bolts

Tomei headgasket

post-115803-0-54582700-1391412579_thumb.jpg

Refreshed R32 cylinder head

Second hand valves - the last ones were bent

New inlet guides

K-lined exhaust guides

Will be fitted using ARP head studs

post-115803-0-62597600-1391412658_thumb.jpg

Front of engine

Tomei adjustable cam gears

RB25 water pump I think?

New tensioners

The legendary Tomei oilpump

post-115803-0-87067800-1391412666_thumb.jpg

Side view

post-115803-0-45015600-1391412678_thumb.jpg

In boot fuel surge tank

post-115803-0-37586600-1391412692_thumb.jpg

Two, yes two Bosch 044 fuel pumps to feed the beast!

They will feed a standard RB26 rail modified to twin entry and centre return.

post-115803-0-48466400-1391412693_thumb.jpg

Engine ready to go back in

You can see the new sandwich plate and an additional oil pressure sensor for an Innovate MTX-D gauge & the Link G4 for oil safety cutoff

post-115803-0-29397200-1391412742_thumb.jpg

The twins

GT2860R-9, but I have seen then referred to as GT2859R-9 also

Should give great response and around 330wkw on 98 and hopefully 370wkw on E85

Enough to keep me content for a while!

You can also see RIPS modified fitting at the top there.

post-115803-0-05452700-1391412755_thumb.jpg

Ethanol sensor T'eed off return line

post-115803-0-67285300-1391412765_thumb.jpg

Finally back in it's home!

post-115803-0-95612000-1391412782_thumb.jpg

Fuel rail finished

ID1000 injectors modified to fit 10.5mm standard rail

Turbosmart FPR1200 fuel pressure regulator (needs to be grunty to return the flow from two 044s!)

post-115803-0-63473200-1391412813_thumb.jpg

Thanks for viewing!

All questions and comments are greatly appreciated!

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There are black hose clamps as well if you care. Plazmaman for example sells some: https://plazmaman.com/product/black-hose-clamps-premium-quality-stainless-breeze/
    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
×
×
  • Create New...