Jazzadub

So the PPG 1-4 with the billet mainshaft and billet sandwich plate will be a pretty bulletproof setup for up to 1000hp?

I guess I can always change the housing if need be, but I'm pretty sure the 1.05 will do me for now. Any recommendations on what I can do with the gearbox? I'm sure with my luck it will break pretty quickly at the new power level, if I keep it stock. I was considering a 1-4 or 1-5 helical dog gear kit from PPG, however once you add on the billet mainshaft and billet sandwich plate it gets expensive really fast, especially considering I would have to pay GST again on top of that! Does anyone know if the billet sandwich plate is really needed? Another option I was looking at, which is more local to me, is this: https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/nissan/gearboxes/auction-1546714929.htm?rsqid=a95b22b0506842ddbe40b7846d38df8c It's straight cut dog box 3rd/4th, with stock helical synchro 1st, 2nd and 5th It would end up being cheaper than the PPG option, however it could be weird retaining synchro on 1st and 2nd? Anyone got any ideas?

No worries! This is what I've decided to go with at the moment: RIPS Forged RB30 Short Block Sinco RB26/30 Turbo Manifold Turbosmart 60mm Wastegate Xspurt 1600cc Injectors EFR9180 Turbo Already put a deposit down on the block and purchased the turbo manifold! Currently deciding what I do with the head. Tossing up between the following Kelford camshafts: I want early spool as it's a big turbo, wide powerband, drivable, low maintenance, reliable. 182-E 280 10.5mm Good for 3.0L, could be too aggressive and lose bottom end? 182-S 272mm 10.5mm Good for E85 182-C 272 10mm Good for quick spool up, but would it be ok with a 3.0L?

Interesting option, but if I go single, I don't want to compromise. I'm just wondering if the RB26/30 + GT2860R-9 combination would be usable for a few months, allowing me to attend track days etc. while I continue saving for a full turbo replacement etc.

I think long term I will go for a EFR9180 1.05 A/R However, in the short term, I am wondering how well the RB30 would work with the GT2860R-9 turbos? I imagine it will come on boost earlier, however it will run out of puff earlier as well, and we would need to make sure the turbos didn't overspeed? Any thoughts?

OK, bad news. Cylinders 1 & 5 compression tested at 60psi... They are going to be bore scoped today, but it's probably cracked ringlands - the pistons are stock RB26. Why oh why didn't I forge the damn thing from the beginning! Anyway, this is happening sooner than I would have liked, but as the engine needs to come out, I might as well go RB30 with a single. EFR8374 A/R 1.05 still a good choice? Twin 38mm, or 44mm gates?

Ahh cool. I guess I'll see if it lessens over time. Do you think the catch can itself could do with a clean? It doesn't have internal access but I have a lot of ethanol I could soak it in?

Thanks. I hope it is just normal breathing as the compression was tested recently. The amount of vapour only really became noticable when I cleaned the catch can filters. Do you think I should oil the filters? I have some K&N filter oil. Perhaps that would stop the oil vapour passing the filters and keep it in the catch longer so it can condense? I might clean them again and give that a try..

But in essence you think the amount of vapour could be normal, it's just not being condensed back in to oil correctly? Or potentially the turbo oil returns have become blocked or restricted?

Thanks I will check that link. It hasn't always done this, so I don't think it is a design issue. It's a RIPS catch can with two feeds from rear of rocker cover, and two drains back in to sump. There is a 1.2mm oil feed restrictor in the head also.

Thanks, will have to get that sorted one day. Anyone got any more ideas regarding the blow by? Maybe it just needs more time running after the oil change or something?

It has had the JB weld put on it, but it probably wasn't cleaned up that good. You mean like a wheel sanding disc or something?

Nope, not that I am aware of. And I frequently check that the coolant system is topped up and bled correctly. Why do you ask? ... I have to do that because there is a hairline crack in the coolant jacket on the passenger side of the block Really really slow leak, but it's a massive pain because I run Evan's waterless coolant, and that shit's not cheap. Really need to figure out a permanent way to fix that ...

@Dose Pipe Sutututu Just checked my records and valve stem seals were done when the head was reconditioned about 7300kms ago? Also, I don't think I am seeing any blue smoke out the exhaust. I think the only smoke out the exhaust is from fuel; when it's running rich for any reason, backfiring etc.

@Dose Pipe Sutututu Don't worn valve steam seals usually cause oil burn in exhaust? How would it cause excessive vapour from the catch can? Oil leaking in to cylinder and then oil fumes passing rings in to crankcase?

Hey all, My catch can filters were filthy with crap bubbling out and dripping everywhere, so when I changed the oil I gave them a good clean. Now that the filters aren't saturated in crap, there is quite a lot of vapour coming out of the filters. It seems to smell kind of sweet, doesn't smell like exhaust gas or anything like that. I would say the amount lessens or stays the same with revs - it doesn't appear to get any worse. Here are a couple of videos showing the vapour. https://photos.app.goo.gl/pnYO6bEGi3dFsCHk1 Keen to know what people think! Cheers,

If this is the wrong place to ask, let me know and I'll start a new thread! Will 18x10.5 +22 with 265/35R18 fit an R32 GTR at standard height without issue? Any modifications required? What if I want to go lower in the future - say low enough such that the top of tyre is flush with the guard. Wheels I am looking at are Work S1Rs, so offset is customizable in 1mm increments over a huge range.

If you jack it completely off the ground and let out the clutch in first gear do the front wheels spin or not?

Why not just remove the fuse? Is there a significant difference in the turning circle between a GT-R and a GTST?

Videos! I went to my first autocross today! Still learning but it was a great experience and I made huge improvements over the day! Links to the best videos below! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1jFnfSOTgZk https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TZyicuLldsU

My combo is RB26DETT with -9's and that run was done on E85. Engine is standard but everything was refreshed.

Could be that. I don't have a dyno graph of the supposed 330wkw run on 98, but I do have a dyno graph of a 320wkw run on E85 (not the 260kw 98 run). So less power on E85 than it supposedly had on 98, but its surely going to be faster. I think there must have been some tweaking done of the ramp rate to achieve the 330wkw figure for 98. This is the dyno graph of the E85 run, does it looks fast? It sure feels fast! Fair point, I've never been to the track so don't have any rock hard evidence. Lets just say it definitely doesn't feel like it has had 70kw ripped from it!

I was told my car had 330wkw, it was retuned to 260wkw and feels faster, so explain that one! I think the first run might have been done in RWD, and the second in AWD, but even so, it seems like a huge difference!

Complete I had the Nismo Coppermix installed earlier in the week and couldn't be happier! The pedal is a bit firmer than the puck type clutch that failed, but much easier to modulate, and just overall feels much more refined than the last one! I have done around 130ks on it, so not too long before it should be fully bedded in! I also put in the rear slotted rotors and Ferodo brake pads, which didn't really make a big difference, like the front ones did, but they look a lot better! Changed out the thermostat as well, which is a prick of a job! The old one was opening at around 35C and was very open at 50C, despite being a standard 76.5C unit! I replaced it with another standard Nissan thermostat. Seems to warm up much faster, and the temperature doesn't drop off once I start moving, which was annoying! The only thing of concern is that the oil temperatures seem to sit around 90-95 now. With a trackday booked in for the 3rd of August at Taupo, I just hope that more of my time is spent boosting, rather than doing cool down laps! I have the CEL configured to come on at 100C ECT, and the scale on my oil temperature gauge will touch into the red at 112C and top out the scale I configured at 120, which means time to cool down! Will hopefully have some videos to post up soon!

Note I said "not primarily by reburning unburnt fuel". Some stuff will certainly burn, but the exhaust gas is mainly an inert gas that reduces the effective displacement. I'd say any economy gains would be 90% due to the effective reduction in displacement, and maybe 10% due to reburning fuel.