Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Selling due to getting my full license in November this year, and I want to bring over my own FD RX7 from the motherland.. Car CANNN be registered but currently unregistered.

post-53526-0-59248700-1375859087_thumb.jpg

ENGINE:

JZS147 2JZGTE approx 110xxxkms

Cast single turbo manifold T4 flange 38mm wastegate

GT3582 anti surge turbo .82 ATP rear housing T4 flange

Custom oil + coolant turbo braided lines

JZA80 water pump

Re-routed wiring looms + bonnet cable to engine bay

GKtech plastic overflow bottle

Walbro GSS442 high pressure fuel pump

Removed throttle body traction control

Light weight drive pulleys

Sard radiator (S14) + custom piping

Front mount intercooler 450x300x76 + custom piping

HKS oil cooler core

Oil filter relocation kit + custom lines + Speedflow fittings

Oil catch can

Modified rocker covers with Speedflow fittings

Tial 38mm external wastegate

Bee R rev limiter

HKS FCD

3" custom exhaust turbo back 1 muffler

Custom accelerator cable

Radiator shroud with 2x 12” thermos

Turbo heat blanket

POWER: 299RWKW, 840NM @ 17PSI

DRIVETRAIN:

R33 RB25 gearbox

Cut and shut RB>2JZ bellhousing

Billet flywheel (W58)

single carbotic 5-puk clutch (RB25)

1300KG pressure plate (W58)

Custom 1 piece 3" tailshaft

Welded R200 diff + 5 bolt half shafts 4.1 ratio

Powered By Max solid subframe risers

R34 rear 5 stud hubs

Super Now engine mounts (R32)

Super Now gearbox mount

Craig Helps engine block mounts

Custom gearbox xmember (R32)

S14 clutch master cylinder

Braided + custom clutch line

Uras solid shifter (R34)

Enkei wheel nuts

AMG style 17x9+11 (pair) REAR

Mesh style 17x9.5+15 (pair) FRONT


SUSPENSION:

KTS rear strut brace

JIC FLT-FAS coilovers 7k front 5k rear

S14 LCA’s modified/boxed + S13 balljoints

Kazama castor arms

Tomei 3 point front strut brace

A31 front sway bar


STEERING:

S14 steering rack

Ikeya Formula tie rods

KTS roll centre adjustment tie rod ends

KTS aluminium steering rack bushes

GT-1 Motorsports steering bush


BRAKES:

S14 front 4 piston calipers

Project Mu front rotors

Braided front lines

S14 BM44 master cylinder

Hydro h/brake installed under standard console


INTERIOR:

Pioneer front 6” speakers

Works Bell boss kit

Works Bell quick release with flipper

Works Bell steering wheel 330mm

Yashio Factory spin turn knob

Bride Zeta III (Red with gradient)

Bride seat rail

Cusco D1 8 point roll cage

Okuyama Carbing gear knob

Blitz SBC

Sard battery box

Isolator switch

Broadway mirror

Apexi water temp + oil temp + oil pressure gauges + controller

Alpine CD/MD player

Type X passenger seat


EXTERIOR:

S13 silvia front end

Blacked out quarter windows

Flared guards

Resprayed red

post-53526-0-13661000-1375859095_thumb.jpg

post-53526-0-82255300-1375859104_thumb.jpg

post-53526-0-22336100-1375859163_thumb.jpg

post-53526-0-84641500-1375859167_thumb.jpg

post-53526-0-73140600-1375859179_thumb.jpg

post-53526-0-83054400-1375859189_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/429891-fs-sa-2jz-180sx-drift-car-10500/
Share on other sites

Finished with lowballers.

I am stripping the car.
See anything you like/want hit me up.

Only thing I am keeping is the seat. Rest is going.

Prices will be up in a week once Ive crunched some numbers.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...