Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I have just finished installing a plazmaman ffp to my R34 GTT, As soon as i turn the key the 'Check Engine' Light comes on, with the 'Slip' and 'TCC Off' Coming on a second later,

Im guessing those 2 are normal considering i used a plazmaman throttle body so no more traction control, however is it normal for these to trigger the 'Check Engine' Light?

I Also have the Hicas light on due to removing the hicas system.

Is there anyway i can check these error codes as i have a apexi power FC installed.

I have gone to the 'Check Sensor' Page on the PFC and 'THRO' is highlighted, and the O2 Sensor has 0.00V

Can anybody shed some light on this?

Cheers

EDIT: Just found that THRO is throttle so im going to assume i didn't correctly set up my TPS, what is the voltage meant to be for closed and WOT?

Edited by BlackBox

The factory ECU would have a fault code for TCS Throttle Motor at the very least after doing what you've done. PowerFC probably wouldn't care 0 although I'm not sure if Apexi would have kept the interlink between ECU and TCS/ABS units the same as Nissan did. The TCS system light will be because of taking out the TCS throttle. Just remove the TCS globes from the dash. The CEL is probably from the TPS and/or the O2 sensor errors that you can see. Throttle closed voltage should be ~0.45v. I'm not sure if you should see a voltage on the O2 sensor if the engine isn't running. It's fair to assume that with ignition on it would be powered up so it probably should. Start the engine (when you can) and see what it says then.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did you panel beat the dents or have you tried to repair this only using filler?  Is your sanding block soft/flexible and is following the shape of the panel rather then just knocking down the high points? 
    • I haven't knocked them down yet. I think I made the repair more complex than it should have been. I had rock chips combined with waviness and dents and I tackled it all in one because it was near each other and just end up wasting a bunch of bog lol. I'll knock down those areas and see how I go. And yep what you are saying at the end is correct. I think I might be sanding the top of a steep hill then my sanding block falls into the dent and gets rid of the guidecoat if that makes sense. Though shouldnt unless I'm covering too big of an area with not a long enough block. I'll try something new and provide some updates. Getting there though! Thanks as always.  
    • Yeah makes sense, hard to comment on your situation without seeing what your doing. I was talking generally before, I would not be looking to randomly create low spots with a hammer to then have to fill them.  It's hard without seeing what your doing, it sounds like you are using the guide coat to identify low spots, as you're saying the panel is still wavy. I don't see how you're not ending up with patches of guide coat remaining in a wavy panel? Once the high spots are knocked down to the correct level, surely to have a wavy panel you need low spots. And those low spots would have guide coat still in them?
    • So I'll put filler past the repair area a bit to make sure I don't miss anything. Then I'll block it until it's almost level, put the guidecoat, then keep blocking until it's gone. Then it's still wavy.  In regards to hitting the panel, I saw this video might give more context - Skip to 0:47 he knocks it down. But yeah I'm sanding until the guidecoat is gone then checking because otherwise my filler is still well above the bodyline. Unless what you're saying is I should put guidecoat around it early, surrounding the filler then stip once it's gone?
    • I refreshed the OEM injectors with the kit and connected it up. It now ideals okay even with the IACV removed. Driving still has the same cutoff issue like the 550cc injectors so the issue is somewhere else. I bought FPG's Fuel Pump Hanger. I will be installing it next, but it is not as straightforward as I thought it was with my limited wiring knowledge and no instruction on the specific model I purchased (FPG-089). I also got the incorrect billet clamp as I could not find info on the OEM sizing.
×
×
  • Create New...