Solenoid As Isolation Switch

[boxheadmr]

Are these what people is to isolate the battery and starter motor and have a remote switch on the outside of the car as well as the inside?

[boxheadmr]

Something like this?

http://britaxae.com.au/am/technical_data/cole-hersee-special-solenoid-applications.html

[warps]

No,

Something like this

http://tracksformations.com.au/battery-isolator-kit-p-48.html

[89CAL]

You could just run 2 of the above in series? So they both have to be on for the battery to be active. Or do you want a Battery and Starter Isolater?

[boxheadmr]

Yes I have the 6 pole version but am looking at something that will allow me to use a remote switch on the outside and inside as I don't wish to use the pull cord.

If you look at the few options on here

http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/battery-isolators-master-switches

The Brise and ETA 921 could both be used but are expensive, I was looking at something like I mentioned above if it was a viable alternative.

[warps]

Ah I thought you meant the remote chord.

Not used the solenoid ones personally. Not a big fan.

Why do you need to operate from inside and outside?

[boxheadmr]

Probably not both at the same time but much like the master switch you need to operate it from the driver or from outside via a marshal.

[boxheadmr]

I was hoping that one of these will simplify the wiring as well and you can put the isolation switch closer to the batt

[DJRIFT]

I've done a few rear mounted battery race cars with solenoids. If it shuts the engine off than its still cams compliant. A lot of heavy earth moving equipment ( mainly komatsu) uses electric isolation switches.

You simply wire a switch in the dash and a switch externally in series to the solenoid so that if either one is switched off it turns the solenoid off.

If wired correctly the only down side is that there is a small amount of current draw while the isolation switch is "on" , so it can't be left on for days at a time. But if it's a race car than it won't matter.

I've been going to do a r33 ISo switch write up I think I should do an electric ISo one as well soon.

[boxheadmr]

Damo, how are you wiring these in?

The alternator seems to be the main issue, do you simply cut the power to the ecu?

Matt

[boxheadmr]

Here is something I found elsewhere but not sure about the alternator

[boxheadmr]

Wondering if anyone else knows?

[DJRIFT]

That diagram above is pretty much it. Pretty simple

You can buy a double pole solenoid that will open circuit another circuit like the Motorsport version ISo switches. Like alt field or ignition.

The way I like to do it is run the alt battery feed to the live side of the ISo switch. But if your rear mounting a battery this kind of defeats the purpose.

[boxheadmr]

The only concern I had was that the alternator if it was bougjt in after the solenoid wouldnt it potentially keep the car running.

[DJRIFT]

If you use no other means to shut the engine down than the battery feed to the alt needs to go to the battery side of the isolation switch. There is a diagram in the Motorsport section on how it needs to be done.

If you use ignition or alt field isolation than the alternator is no concern

[boxheadmr]

Why do you think this is not a more popular option then the manual isolation switches typically seen?

[DJRIFT]

Cost, weight, simplicity, because race car.

Revolution and other Motorsport shops sell cams approved isolation switches as a manual switch. If they sold the solenoid as a kit everyone would fit them.

Plus the external toggle switches fail over Tim where as a pull cord will not.