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Make an offer if you need something
Most parts are from a series 2 but should also fit series 1's
Pickups from Mt.Gravatt Brisbane,i can drop them off locally or post...


-Standard rearbar
Has a few light scratches & scuffs but is otherwise in good condition
Original stock red paint
$200 ono

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These are all the aircon parts i have,not sure if they are from series 1 or 2 s14 as they were removed from a halfcut
I will sell these parts seperately.
-Heater core box $50
-Heater blower motor $50
-Evaporator unit $50
-Compressor pump $75
-AC line[compressor to evaporator] $25

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-Complete set of stock suspension

They have done 100,000 K's,condition unknown as they came with the car
$150 ono

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-Nabco slave cylinder
Was working fine when removed
$30 ono

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-Stock toe arms
In good condition
$40 ono

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-Stock castor arms
In good condition
$40 ono

-Ashtray
$15 ono

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-Set of four 16" stock s15 wheels up for sale.PCD is 5x114.3


No gutter rash just a few scratches & scuffs on rims
Tyres are all Bridgestone Turanza 215/60/16
Two have about 30% tread,two are down to markers so only good for skids
One rim doesn't have a centre cap
$300 ono

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  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
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