Jump to content
SAU Community

Mugabetown - Whoretownin' At It's Worst.


Recommended Posts

2 sets, no leaks etc.

 

1 set JIC Magic, quality jap gear. Hard rates tho, perfect for track work or mountains. Think they are 8 and 10 or 7 and 9.

 

1 set Tein SS, better for Brisbane shit roads.

How much are you chasing for the Teins?

Motherf**ker

My brand new second hand raw broker CAS is dead

Just swapped it back with my old one that's stuffed and is idling like normal

Fu$k

Beer time

yeh at least uve located the problem Ed.

I have a spare one here for 20?

if it works i will take it! thank you :D

really thought i would be over CAS issues since buying a refurbished CAS (all new parts inside apparently) but guess that is a risk you take :(

if it works i will take it! thank you :D

really thought i would be over CAS issues since buying a refurbished CAS (all new parts inside apparently) but guess that is a risk you take :(

yeah this CAS are a pain in da ass.

And not cheap to replace if buying new.

I f**ked mine up once and was lucky to be able to source a second hand one that has not given me any issues

yet

White 1995 model v-spec

Also has

Hks oil cooler

Unfortunately, with the motor on its way out you would be looking at the same amount as the lowest trade in value, namely, around $11,800. You may be better off parting the car out, if you have the skills/time to do this yourself. http://www.redbook.com.au/cars/research/used/details/1995-nissan-skyline-bcnr33-111628?R=111628&Silo=spec&Vertical=car&Ridx=9&eapi=2 To get the thing back to where it needs to be with engine rebuild and other repairs would be around the 15k mark as a rough estimate depending on how bad it is.

Another benchmark car is a 1996 bright green skyline GTR V-Spec with all the fruit, but some interior and bits missing for $11k. It has been on the market unsold for quite a while http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/mount-warren-park/cars-vans-utes/1996-r33-gtr-nissan-skyline-v-spec-repairable-write-off/1031209389

yeah already know about it

Thanx for the link.

But justifying the price for that kit is pretty hard to digest

So, this was my car on Monday....

PB180004_zps65387e22.jpg

Luckily, the hail was just sliding off the edge of this, no damage caused

PB180009_zps0cc10a78.jpg

It did have this cool aftereffect, i really wish my parents had used the good camera to take this one.

PB180007_zps0bab1921.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • I have been wondering if this is as simple as a voltage issue with the battery. Even on a charger, I can’t seem to get it over 11.8V on the terminals.    Unless the alternator has failed as well, that wouldn’t cause it to die in the middle of driving though. 
    • I’ll give this a shot next time I’m able to wrench on it.    I was able to get my hands on a Haltech Nexus, so that should help with some of the more bizarre troubleshooting. Make sure the CAS is actually sending signal and will be able to set the proper dwell on the R35 coils.    I’ve checked power/grounds/signals at the CAS, ignitor, and plugs and it was all there. Granted this was static with ignition on, not cranking.    I also plan on swapping out the fuel filter and throwing on a fuel pressure gauge at the rail just to confirm I’m getting the correct pressure at the rail. 43psi if I recall correctly. 
    • The attached document is fine. I just downloaded & opened it.
    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
×
×
  • Create New...