Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Black 1993 r33 GTST M Spec. Excellent condition. 70000ks. pioneer MP3. Tint. Lowered (koni adjustable front, Whiteline springs rear). 3 inch exhaust. Blitz BOV. Momo wheel. Long Rego.Immobiliser. $18500. Email for more pics. [email protected][/email]. 0416226774. Will consider a trade for something cheaper.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43213-black-r33-gtst-m-spec/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

do a thread search on M spec and you will find HEAPS of info - there is one particularly good one that had lots of replies

M Spec refers to a turbo model of a Skyline - the body kit is an option.. (If my memory serves me right).....

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

No offence taken.

You could buy a modified one for that much. But when I bought it I looked around and found a pretty standard one that hadn't been thrashed. And I've kept it that way.

Most people on this site would be better of buying an already modded one, but I think good condition low k skylines are becoming rarer and worth more for the right buyers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...