Jump to content
SAU Community

Link G4 Pre Start Setup

mawzy

By mawzy,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

mawzy Enthusiast

mawzy

Posted
Posted

Hi all, just looking for a bit of help from anyone familiar with the latest g4 software to help us get started.

Firstly my intentions are to simply run the car at idle, check over for any issues, ( I've assembled the engine, a factory motor with bolt ons) and will then be taken to a tuner to be dynoed. My auto sparky friend is doing the work wiring wise, and we're using an r34 g4 plugin ecu. He has done this previously with wire in ecu's using slightly older software.

Where we've come unstuck is setting the initial parameters for the ecu, i.e which map sensor, tps, timing etc. Can anyone point out where to bring down the anologue input tree? We've been clicking options - setup ecu parameters - which brings up anologue inputs. But we can't find the right options there for selecting the correct map sensor just options to setup limits of sensors.

Any insight or input would be greatly appreciated. Again, we won't be tuning the car, simply running and checking over for leaks or issues, which I'll sort before dropping to tuner. Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/433078-link-g4-pre-start-setup/
Share on other sites
mawzy Enthusiast

mawzy

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks guilt toy. I'm pretty sure this is what we are bringing up and it lists off all the inputs. But clicking on the map input brings up parameter properties, but there's no option to input what map sensor is installed. Are we missing a step before this? or should we be looking under another input? Have tried all the ones we thought were relevant, but brings up the same screen. We have selected the base map for standard r34 gtt. Again thanks for any help anyone can offer.

89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

There should be a bar permanently on the left hand side of the screen for 'ECU Settings'

This is where you go to analog inputs to setup your sensors.

If it is not there then go to view (up the top) --> ECU Settings

This will bring up the parameters you need. Analog inputs in there is where you will find what your looking for

Keep in mind that my Link G4 base map had some of the inputs and outputs in the wrong spots (think the CAS was set as an output or something weird)

There is information to check everything in the help file, under the wiring or model specific information from memory

Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
Posted

Thanks guilt toy. I'm pretty sure this is what we are bringing up and it lists off all the inputs. But clicking on the map input brings up parameter properties, but there's no option to input what map sensor is installed. Are we missing a step before this? or should we be looking under another input? Have tried all the ones we thought were relevant, but brings up the same screen. We have selected the base map for standard r34 gtt. Again thanks for any help anyone can offer.

I'm a bit confused about where you are looking, because it sounds like it's the right place. But it's very obvious once you are in there, so maybe you are in the wrong place. So I've attached a screen shot I took.

post-61550-0-88495800-1381396775_thumb.jpg

89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

I'm a bit confused about where you are looking, because it sounds like it's the right place. But it's very obvious once you are in there, so maybe you are in the wrong place. So I've attached a screen shot I took.

attachicon.gifPCLink1.jpg

If you hit 'Parameters' on the side of the box with all the settings you will see the section he has gotten in to

mawzy Enthusiast

mawzy

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the help guys. Yes that is the screen we're in, but there's no option to change the type of map sensor. Another thing i'm wondering is if I've downloaded the correct software. The links a couple days old so I assumed it's the most up to date firmware g4. The other possible issue, is we tried the calibrate map sensor before realized had to select the correct sensor, so also going to try restore and start again. Will update how we go. Thanks

Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
Posted

Well that's where your tuner had set it up or how it is on 33's. On the 34 GTT base map it is in the AN Volt 4 position. Not that its too critical, it's gonna be there somewhere and there's only gonna be one map sensor.

89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

Yeah it may be different on other models, was just saying where it is and whats in it basically. I think thats why my settings were all out, because its an r33-r34 base map that is included with the download

The screen above shows you can either select a map sensor or use calibration tables to enter your own values

mawzy Enthusiast

mawzy

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeah has worked resetting the ecu. I'm not sure if we'd changed some oddball setting somewhere else but it wasn't coming up like the screenshots you guys have taken. It is now. I'll leave now for sparky friend to come help. Thanks for your input and advice. One more q for everyone. The base 34 tune is for a standard car correct? Will I be doing any harm in running my car with it? Again will just be idled, not driven. It's running 666cc injectors, which I'm assuming will over fuel quite a bit. Cheers guys

Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
Posted

Shouldnt do any harm just idling, though with 666cc injectors you might have a hard time getting it to idle. Will probably work long enough to check for fuel leaks if that is your intention. Injector settings are quite easy to change in the Link though, you could try adjusting them to get it to idle better. If you can't get it to work then just reload the base map, no harm done.

mawzy Enthusiast

mawzy

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Pretty confident with the fuel side not leaking. I've also installed an oil cooler, I made the braided lines up so bit anxious about them. And installed a radiator header reservoir, there's ended up a few very hard to reach hoses associated with that under the plenum. and oil/water lines around the top mounted turbo. Touchwood, I've taken my time, and had a bitta experience with cars, but this car has alotta money tied up in it. Would be a bit let down if I fail at the end hurdle. All going well will finish the ecu pre start checks tomorrow, and look at firing it up.

Also the way I understand it there's a scaling option associated with the fueling tables? We could adjust this to help idle without changing individual values?

Cheers

Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
Posted

For idle I think it would be easier to adjust the injector values. The scaling tables are based on the master value, so if that isn't right then you could be doing a lot of adjusting and guess work trying to get it to run. What injectors are they?

mawzy Enthusiast

mawzy

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Siemens. When I bought the computer the tuner recommended them. I still needed a set, thought he wouldn't suggest something they weren't getting good results with. He did recommend standard replacement r35 injectors, saying they were bolt in 560cc I think, but were twice the price. I'll see what happens, hopefully don't need to adjust anything. Also forgot it's Bathurst today, haven't watched whole race for couple years now, but like to watch some of it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • oHBoy.
      Starter motor replacment teeth count.

      By oHBoy. · Posted

      I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • suko
      J50 clock date suddenly reset to January 1

      By suko · Posted

      The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...