Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

It was a decent leak, no wonder it was blowing fuel out the zorst the last 4 months.

A quick pressure test would have found it in no time. :P

I finally got access to a workshop and compressor - but we couldn't find any leaks under pressure, we replaced some pipes and worm drives for good measure though - it's all nice and tight now but the problem persists.

He did do a pressure test! makes me worried about my black smoke now lol

Dunc has the black smoke completely gone?

Edited by Dane

It was a decent leak, no wonder it was blowing fuel out the zorst the last 4 months.

A quick pressure test would have found it in no time. :P

We did try a ghetto pressure test but Id say the bung wasnt good enough. Definitely needs to be specifically crafted for the hose you're fitting it to :P

Awesome result Dunc!

:thanks: Very stoked.

He did do a pressure test! makes me worried about my black smoke now lol

Dunc has the black smoke completely gone?

Probably not 100%, I'll need to throw a gopro on the back again to confirm - but I'd say there might be a couple of rich spots in my map (Untuned, highflowed turbo) but its not like it was in the youtube clip any more; any black smoke would just be if you were looking for it. I can rev it out to 7k at 17+ PSI and theres no dead spots after gear changes.

If you haven't pulled the hose off on the passenger side after the FMIC, do that.

Try the hose between the intercooler & turbo...

I can see you posting, but all I'm reading from you is "I sold my Stagea and now I'm a lesser man"

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes I can see how that would put you off HFM, especially with the price of good quality brake fluid. From what I understand it as you say the BM50 is the standard BMC for a R32 GTR, I must admit I would like to go far a Genuine Nissan BM57, but lack of cash prevents that at present. With the price being so close between the genuine BM50 and BM57 a BM57 New it seems a better choice as you gain that 1/16 bore size with the BM57, I would be interested in how much difference you feel with the BM57 fitted. I am going to take SteveL's advice in the short term and see how much actually comes out of that proportioning valve vent and save up for the Genuine Nissan part. Thanks for clarifying the HFM failure
    • Thanks mate. I just got the post inspection 1/2 done from state roads when the starter motor packed up, either that or the car alarm system is having trouble.  OEM part number 23300-AA112.
    • Hi, I though I was coming to an end in finding a replacement starter motor for a rb25de neo. I came across a starter motor from Taarks and a message below stating: Direct fit. 11 Tooth count. All below part numbers have been superseded to 11 teeth. Can some body shed some light on going from 8 teeth to 11 teeth apart from 36-month / 25,000 km warranty for passenger vehicles to 12 Month Warranty. Compatible with the following Nissan part numbers: 23300-20P00 23300-20P01 23300-20P05 23300-20P10 23300-20P11 23300-AA111 23300-AA112 23300-AA300 23300-08U10 23300-08U11 23300-08U15  
    • Low battery? Maybe check capacity? I know first-hand, on BMWs if your battery drops below 80% capacity, it starts causing strange issues.
    • 8.5 +37 = should fit rear, but I think it'll hit on front. What you want is low 30s/high 20's front, mid 30's rear. That 17" screenshot you posted looks good, I'd run it on my R32 (but that's long dead now). For tyre sizes, my rule of thumb is: 8': 235, 9": 255. But that's just my opinion. Nismo sizes: 18x8.5+35/18x9.5+38 is a good starting point.
×
×
  • Create New...