Jump to content
SAU Community

Speed Sensor Wiring

frozenwaffles
 Share

Recommended Posts

frozenwaffles Mentor

frozenwaffles

Posted
Posted

Hi guys, apparently the speed sensor in the gearbox is wired straight to the cluster in an R33. Can anyone tell me what the two wires are?

In fact I actually know the positive one...Its a grey wire with red trace. This is the 'signal' wire from the speed sensor.

I need to know which ground is the ground from the speed sensor.

Actually while looking at a picture of the back of a cluster I think I just worked it out...

Pin 15 is the + positive from the sensor.

Pin 17 is the - negative.

I will try and test this on Monday!

Its an epic long story, bust all I am trying to do is make a Haltech Platinum Pro work with a RacePak Dash...

When you remove the factory cluster...all kinds of things stop working!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/434050-speed-sensor-wiring/
Share on other sites
frozenwaffles Mentor

frozenwaffles

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yes well I don't have the old speedo and there is no reason I should have to keep it.

HICAS - gone!

ABS - gone!

ATTESSA - gone!

I just need speed :) and an indication of what that speed it! ;)

I will update this thread when I test it tomorrow...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • PranK
      My new to me M35 Stagea wagon

      By PranK · Posted

      Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Chupapy
      New r33 owner

      By Chupapy · Posted

      Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
    • jtha7
      New r33 owner

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi @Chupapy i had several leaks from coolant pipes being corroded, i also had one leak on back of the head onto transmission. For me that leak was from the turbo water line. Follow the line to the back of the head The hose and metal pipe had perished these are the best pics I took of it at the time
×
×
  • Create New...