Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Undercar Surge Tank, Rb25 Vct Cam Gear, Oil Pump, Balancer, Twin Clutch


Recommended Posts

So I'm chasing a few parts for my engine upgrade.

Rb25det vct cam gear only

Aftermarket oil pump or billet gear oil pump

Ross balancer to suit r33 rb25 with air con pulley

Twin plate clutch to handle around 700rwhp

Undercar surge tank to suit r33

Arp rb25 head studs

Arp rb30 main studs.

Located north side brisbane or will pay postage if it's a good price.

  • 2 weeks later...

I have aquired, nitro oil pump, NPC twin plate, ARP mains and head stud.

Still interested in:

After market sump

Rb26 can cover baffles

Under car surge tank

Ross balancer

Rb25 vct can gear.

  • 1 month later...

Most parts acquired, thanks everyone that has helped.

Mainly after r33 undercar surge tank twin outlets,

rb25 Ross balancer,

aftermarket rb30 sump,

rb30 spool rods with arp bolts.

Rb head drain fitting

Rb26 rocker cover baffles.

1200cc injectors or bigger 11mm or 14mm with adapters.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSP male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSP reducing bush?
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
    • ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
×
×
  • Create New...