What oil pump gears?

[The Skyline Guy r34]

I have a 500hp r34 gtr and I guess its time to upgrade the oil pump gears to something stronger that can handle rev limiter and shock.

I've been looking for billet gears and came over the plazmaman gears for about $380, but then I saw Reimax had some Chromoly steel gears for about $250 parts number: 15110-AAR11-81.  How is the strenght on these? Anyone heard about these shattering? Is chromoly steel as strong as billet?

I have the oem 05u oil pump so the 81mm should fit?

[The Skyline Guy r34]

Combined with a fluidamper this should be a pretty safe engine?

Edited February 1 by The Skyline Guy r34

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

Tbh, just install a Nitto oil pump.

Don't bother with gears.

[UWISSH!]

22 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Tbh, just install a Nitto oil pump.

Don't bother with gears.

This^^^^^
dont cheap out. Do it the right way

[GTSBoy]

Since when is chrome-moly not billet anyway?

[joshuaho96]

44 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Tbh, just install a Nitto oil pump.

Don't bother with gears.

If you want extra oil pump gear strength nitto also has their sine drive profile.

[Duncan]

26 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Since when is chrome-moly not billet anyway?

Marketing....... 

Some places want to talk about what it is made of, some about how they make it. 

#BilletTheWorld

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

I've done the whole gear thing,the problem with gears is that your slapping it into an old housing that's worn and/or out of spec and it causes more issues than it solves

Sure, buy a new OEM oil pump and slap in gears (I also did that 2nd time round), but why? You're already 3/4 of the way to a new Nitto pump (which I did with my 2nd built motor).

TL;DR buy a Nitto pump.

[Butters]

Doesn't a nitto pump send you down a new rabbit hole ? 

The one were you need bigger sump to stop it emptying. 

Head restrictor to stop head filling up

Head drain when it does

then a plumb back to sump  catch can for when none of the above works ? 

 

Not being cheeky, serious question as I am putting on a big sumo soon and have a billet gear set but also desire a bit more oil pressure for my vcam. Was thinking gears + a shim to bump pressure. 

[Duncan]

30 minutes ago, Butters said:

Doesn't a nitto pump send you down a new rabbit hole ? 

The one were you need bigger sump to stop it emptying. 

Head restrictor to stop head filling up

Head drain when it does

then a plumb back to sump  catch can for when none of the above works ? 

 

Not being cheeky, serious question as I am putting on a big sumo soon and have a billet gear set but also desire a bit more oil pressure for my vcam. Was thinking gears + a shim to bump pressure. 

All true, I have those mods with nitto pump on the race car. But I think the key difference is use; on the street there is no condition where you are reving at 4-8,000 non stop for 20+minutes.  Yes, a couple of seconds up to a speed limit (or well beyond) might start to empty the sump, but you are going to get off it and have it return to idle pretty quick.  I expect nitto pumps are only a problem without those mods for track use

[Murray_Calavera]

2 hours ago, Butters said:

Doesn't a nitto pump send you down a new rabbit hole ? 

The one were you need bigger sump to stop it emptying. 

Head restrictor to stop head filling up

Head drain when it does

then a plumb back to sump  catch can for when none of the above works ? 

 

Not being cheeky, serious question as I am putting on a big sumo soon and have a billet gear set but also desire a bit more oil pressure for my vcam. Was thinking gears + a shim to bump pressure. 

I thought that went without saying. 

Kinda like saying buying a bigger turbo sets you down a rabbit hole of buying bigger injectors, fuel pump, ECU upgrade etc. 

I would have thought that anyone spending big on an oil pump would also have sorted the rest of the oil control system. 

[The Skyline Guy r34]

Ok, so let me clarify.. This is a street car that does about 2000km a year. I know a complete billet oil pump is stronger and better but I just cant justify going down the rabit hole (atleast not right now) I have a link ecu that tells me I lose preassure at one pull, because the sump runs dry. I now have about 6,2 liters of oil in oem pan and that fixed the problem. Putting a nitto pump or something will surely drain the sump quicker and ill need a bigger sump and so it begins... I just dont want my oem gears to fail. Surely some billet/chromoly gears will last longer if I center the gears correctly? I also found the reimax gears with a billet backing plate for not too much more $. Is this plate worth getting along with the gears?

[Murray_Calavera]

16 minutes ago, The Skyline Guy r34 said:

Ok, so let me clarify.. This is a street car that does about 2000km a year. I know a complete billet oil pump is stronger and better but I just cant justify going down the rabit hole (atleast not right now) I have a link ecu that tells me I lose preassure at one pull, because the sump runs dry. I now have about 6,2 liters of oil in oem pan and that fixed the problem. Putting a nitto pump or something will surely drain the sump quicker and ill need a bigger sump and so it begins... I just dont want my oem gears to fail. Surely some billet/chromoly gears will last longer if I center the gears correctly? I also found the reimax gears with a billet backing plate for not too much more $. Is this plate worth getting along with the gears?

Is the engine still in your car and it's currently running without issue?

If everything is currently fine, why not just tune the car to protect the oem pump and drive the car with mechanical sympathy. You could setup a really soft progressive rev limiter, no 2 step/anti lag, stay off the limiter as soon as it starts to cut, etc etc. 

Then put away the pennies until your ready to sort the entire oil control system in one go?

[The Skyline Guy r34]

1 minute ago, Murray_Calavera said:

Is the engine still in your car and it's currently running without issue?

If everything is currently fine, why not just tune the car to protect the oem pump and drive the car with mechanical sympathy. You could setup a really soft progressive rev limiter, no 2 step/anti lag, stay off the limiter as soon as it starts to cut, etc etc. 

Then put away the pennies until your ready to sort the entire oil control system in one go?

Yes the engine is in the car and running without issues. The car is tuned with all of these issues in mind and is limitet to about 7200rpm. But I was thinking it would not hurt to have 25 year old gears swapped to new billet ones? Also putting on a fluidampr would help ease the stress of the pump?

[Murray_Calavera]

Just now, The Skyline Guy r34 said:

Yes the engine is in the car and running without issues. The car is tuned with all of these issues in mind and is limitet to about 7200rpm. But I was thinking it would not hurt to have 25 year old gears swapped to new billet ones? Also putting on a fluidampr would help ease the stress of the pump?

Hmm that's a big job to pull the motor just to upgrade the pump and harmonic balancer. The average bear would probably bundle in more work at the same time, engine build or what have you. Your call though, suppose if your putting in all the work, your only paying for parts and machine work so I guess it's only costing you extra time in the end. 

What type of rev limiter are you using at the moment and what is the type of driving your doing on the street that is making you concerned about the oil pump?

As for if it would hurt or not doing those upgrades, I suppose it's only going to hurt the wallet and/or your time in labour pulling the motor etc (provided the parts are installed correctly and to spec. Lots of things could hurt otherwise lol)

[The Skyline Guy r34]

10 minutes ago, Murray_Calavera said:

Hmm that's a big job to pull the motor just to upgrade the pump and harmonic balancer. The average bear would probably bundle in more work at the same time, engine build or what have you. Your call though, suppose if your putting in all the work, your only paying for parts and machine work so I guess it's only costing you extra time in the end. 

What type of rev limiter are you using at the moment and what is the type of driving your doing on the street that is making you concerned about the oil pump?

As for if it would hurt or not doing those upgrades, I suppose it's only going to hurt the wallet and/or your time in labour pulling the motor etc (provided the parts are installed correctly and to spec. Lots of things could hurt otherwise lol)

Im not pulling the engine for an oil pump, that is too excessive. I'll try to do it with the engine in the car, taking off the gearbox and sump.

I've also got the oem clutch so maybe I should upgrade that while in there. 

Im not sure what type of rev limiter it is.. Didnt know there were different types of rev limiters? As for my driving, its only on the street doing a few pulls through the gears to about 7000rpm. Maybe a few launches if I feel like it. I also have a antilag/launch control button wich I know hammer alot on the gears.

[Murray_Calavera]

2 minutes ago, The Skyline Guy r34 said:

Im not pulling the engine for an oil pump, that is too excessive. I'll try to do it with the engine in the car, taking off the gearbox and sump.

I've also got the oem clutch so maybe I should upgrade that while in there. 

Im not sure what type of rev limiter it is.. Didnt know there were different types of rev limiters? As for my driving, its only on the street doing a few pulls through the gears to about 7000rpm. Maybe a few launches if I feel like it. I also have a antilag/launch control button wich I know hammer alot on the gears.

I think we just solved this dilemma, oil pump upgrade is an engine out job. So can probably put a pin in this until your ready to pull the motor. 

Ah yep, there are quite a few options with regards to your rev limiter. You can cut fuel, or spark or both. You can cut everything all at once and when you hit the limiter it's like hitting a brick wall lol. Or you can slowly introduce the cut, progressively cutting more cylinders over a RPM range, this style of rev limiter is really soft, kinda feels like the car has developed a misfire and just stops making power. No harsh cut at all. 

Yeah well, I suppose we can all say stay away from the fun button until you've got all this sorted but you already know your playing with fire there lol. 

[joshuaho96]

2 hours ago, The Skyline Guy r34 said:

Im not pulling the engine for an oil pump, that is too excessive. I'll try to do it with the engine in the car, taking off the gearbox and sump.

I've also got the oem clutch so maybe I should upgrade that while in there. 

Im not sure what type of rev limiter it is.. Didnt know there were different types of rev limiters? As for my driving, its only on the street doing a few pulls through the gears to about 7000rpm. Maybe a few launches if I feel like it. I also have a antilag/launch control button wich I know hammer alot on the gears.

You are not removing the oil pump without pulling the engine. Just isn't happening. It is theoretically possible, in practice a 700 pound boat anchor is going to be hanging over your head and the slightest mistake will severely injure you.

I have done very annoying jobs that should require pulling the engine but I didn't. I get the mental block when it comes to pulling engines, especially because it requires a ton of shop space most people don't have. This is one case where you need to pull the engine.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

Easier to pull the motor out 

[The Skyline Guy r34]

I dont have the space or time to pull the engine unfortunately..

Ok so ill wait with the pump and gears. Would it be increasing the life of the pump/gears and worth the $ to just put a fluidampr on there while changing the timing belt which needs replacing soon anyway?