Jump to content
SAU Community

Stupid Question... Just Fitted Splitfire Coilpacks

Lum

By Lum,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

Lum Community Regular

Lum

Posted
Posted (edited)

I've just fitted some Splitfire SF-DIS-001 coilpacks. Initial test shows a big improvement. The car now starts instantly and no more misfire under acceleration. Not bad for an hour's work.

The manual has a warning saying that after fitting them, you may get knocking/detonation and should adjust the timing to suit. I'm fairly sure the timing isn't adjustable on these engines. Is that the case?

Should I be disconnecting the battery to do an ECU reset, or is that not a thing on these ECUs?

I'm also thinking that next time I go into that area, I want to get rid of the pointless cover. Literally the only use it serves is to provide a mount for the power transistor. Question is where is a good place to relocate the power transistor to? Should I just cut the cover down to just the last 4 screws as even this will make it less annoying to deal with as it won't conflict with the J pipe.

Anything else I should know?

Edited by Lum
Jswljones Enthusiast

Jswljones

Posted
Posted (edited)

Basically the same thing for all RB engines:

Timing an RB20DET

By: goofynick

Warm up car to operating temp.

Make sure idle is 650 +/- 50 rpms. You can adjust your idle RPM's with a flathead screwdriver by turning the screw on the AAC. You have to unplug the brown plug from the AAC first, then plug it back in.

Unplug the TPS (not the idle switch, but the tps, has the cord hooked to the plug coming out of the sensor).

Hook up timing light around the loop at the back of the engine coming out of the ignitor pack (black wire loop).

Check timing, if way off, then flip the way the thing is connected around that loop.

Set to 15 degrees for manual trans, 20 for auto with car in neutral, do so by loosening 3 bolts on cam angle sensor and rotating it left or right.

Tighten CAS.

Plug tps in and rev engine, then unplug TPS and check again to be sure it is at 15 degrees with idle around 650rpms.

Shut off the car and uplug everything the timing light, plug tps back in and unplug battery for 10 mins.

Hook up the battery, restart the car and go drive it hard for a few minutes.

Source: http://forums.nicoclub.com/adjusting-timing-on-an-rb20det-t218636.html

Edited by Jswljones
Lum Community Regular

Lum

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Panic over.

I got my partner to have a listen to it. She is better at this kind of thing than I am.

Results:
It's only happening on one cylinder
It gets better overall as it gets warmer.
It gets worse under acceleration

Conclusion:
Most likely an exhaust gasket.
Possibly also a noisy tappet.

Annoying, but I have more important things to worry about.

  • 2 months later...
Lum Community Regular

Lum

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Well I can now confirm that it was actually the turbo gasket. It just finished blowing during accelerating up to 70 from a toll booth!

I guess I should do both turbo gaskets and all 6 exhaust gaskets at the same time as it looks like a pain in the arse job.

Are they the same for RB20 and RB25? Different sellers seem to disagree on this.

Edited by Lum
  • 3 months later...
Lum Community Regular

Lum

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Updating an old thread, but this is finally sorted. Turned out that 5 exhaust manifold gasket studs had snapped, both the ones on cylinder 6 and 3 at the front as well.

My local place wanted to take the head off and drill them out, so I told them to get stuffed and took it to a place up in the valleys, a place where the owner's project car was a 400bhp SR20 S13. Got them drilled out with a right angle drill, new manifold/turbo/exhaust gaskets fitted, it sounds lovely now.

Now I just need to fix a grounding issue that has developed, and a sticky solenoid in the starter motor, pretty easy stuff by comparison.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 04-LOOX
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By 04-LOOX · Posted

      Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...