Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Team

No doubt this has been extensively covered previously, and I've had a look on other forums, however info seems to be conflicting as to what to do, how to do it etc.

I have just bought an R32 GTS-t.

Its done 130KM, and looks like the engine has never been removed before.

Im looking at pulling the engine out to do a full clean up (Engine and engine bay are quite dirty) so was looking to get some advice regarding this.

Firstly, is it easier to remove the engine with the gearbox attached or not? - I have done a couple of conversions previously, but I always went out the bottom as everything was being swapped over anyway. - I'm going to buy an engine hoist and stand so I can work on the engine, so I'm assuming leave the gearbox in the car? If someone can advise best way to go about it, would be great.

Secondly, the engine has done 130KM, and the cambelt was last done at 80KM in Japan, the engine seems to be running very well, so am on the fence about whether to rebuild it or not, seeing as I don't actually know the history of the engine. - Should I go ahead with a rebuild, and how far should I go?

Thirdly, I'm wondering if anyone can share their experiences with some basic mods I can do, with maximum bang for buck.. The car currently has a 3" cat back exhaust, weird FMIC (think its been put on in Japan, not very big) and an Apexi AVCR.

I know the main thing is to get a 3" dump and hi flow cat, but what else can I do to get some decent power, at minimum cost?

Also, thinking about an rb25 turbo, however is it truly bolt on swappable, or is there some modification to the water lines i need to do?

Cheers guys.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/435264-rb20det-advicemodsrebuild/
Share on other sites

If it aint broke- dont fix it

Spend your money on changing fluids, cleaning/swap out any leaking gaskets /upgrade your exhaust to 76 mm / tune /25 turbo/service and your done

Hi Team, thanks for your advice! - Jiffo sent me a novel on what to do so thanks Jiffo for taking the time, -

I have given a complete service (Oil, Fuel Filter, Oil Filter, Coolant Flush) and its running smooth, - I bought a few litres of degreaser and soaked the bay in it, hosed it off, and it came up a treat.

It does seem to have a coil pack issue, But as Jiffo advised, will start with a set of plugs and cleaning the coil packs.

Now on to the latest news - Funnily enough even though I just purchased this car, I have now also just purchased a 1996 Stagea with an Auto RB25DET (88000KM), and am looking at dropping the 25 into the GTS-t, and putting the 20DET into the stagea. Thoughts?

I know it sounds retarded putting an RB20DET into a Stagea, but the Stagea requires some body work before it can go back on the road, so it may not even get the 20DET, it may just be parted out (New thread in Stagea parts available possible later)

I've had a long search in regards to putting an Stagea AWD RB25DET into an R32, however most of the threads about GTS-4's, However I have seen that the sump needs to be modified? - I can't seem to find any details on this, does anyone know anyone that knows what they're doing when it comes to this? (Pics, Tutorials?) - Or alternatively, someone around Brisbane that can do it for me?

Apart from the sump, what else needs to be changed/modified? - Can i use the R32 engine ECU Harness on the 25DET (saves messing around with dash plugs)

Thanks Team

dont do it unless you want to seriously devalue the stagea, it may not even be registerable afterwards as you are putting an older motor into a newer car

Fair enough, I bought the Stagea for $1K. So will prob end up cleaning it up a bit, chucking some rego on it and selling it... Then with that coin go buy an r34 rb25, saves time messing around with the sump etc.

Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
×
×
  • Create New...