Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

contact whistla on these forums, he's in VIC too and got his Wolf 3d installed in his R33. I think his was manual tho. Work was done by some rotary workshop from memory.

i have a wolf plug in in my auto r33 the only thing thats wrong with it is gear changing from 1st to 2nd is pretty hard and it holds gears longer i had mine supplied and fitted by peter at rank rotary in mentone ph 95851906

That seems to be the problem with aftermarket ecu's in autos, the gearchange quality suffers. That's why I am going with the less than perfect solution of an SAFC. :)

gear change isnt a problem as long as you bridge across the plug for both the 3/4 throttle position (kickdown) and the TP sensor for shift points. These inputs go into the original ECU, then back out to go to the PCM.

Mine changes beautifully....

gear change isnt a problem as long as you bridge across the plug for both the 3/4 throttle position (kickdown) and the TP sensor for shift points. These inputs go into the original ECU, then back out to go to the PCM.

Mine changes beautifully....

Hi i dont spose you have any pics of the plug that has to be bridged? did you do yours yourself?

its the plug at the ecu, you just have to bridge some pins at the plug.

I have all the diagrams somewhere, ill have a look tomorrow and let you know, what i have here is the signals go from pins 38 and 57, i think they go to pins 14 and 5, but ill have to look at mine to be sure and see which one goes where.

a mate of mine is selling a brand new plug in wolf with warranty etc all brand new in the box never used for 1300 i dunno what thats like price wise but it sounds ok to me..... if u are at all intrested it may save ya some cash... cheers Jon

That's the price you buy it from the "retailer", no savings there.

I too have a wolf 3D, my car is a manual. Also tuned at Rank Rotary, with some finner idle adjustments done at EAS Performance.

i didnt get around to it today, but the easiest way to do it, the way i did, is the check pins 14 and 5 with the nissan ecu connected, see what voltages they have coming out (use a digital multimeter, NOT analogue). one should have a voltage that increases from around 0 volts closed throttle to around 5 volts WOT. This pin is the sensor signal OUT to the PCM. Once you have found it, and you have your new computer ready to plug in, simply run a bridging wire from pin 38 to the one that showed the variable voltage.

Without this feed from the TPS, the PCM has no idea of throttle position, so upchanges and down changes will be erratic, AND, line pressure could also be low, which could cause slippage in the clucth packs and bands.

I think from memory that the 3/4 postion throttle switch also goes out to the PCM, for kickdown, but i'll have to check mine to be sure.

I'm not running the wolf, im running a motec m48, but obviously the principal is the same.

Hope this helps.

This wiring diagram is one of the best i could find, its large, (1.2 mb jpg) but very clear.

If you can, print it out on A3,.

http://members.iinet.net.au/~kbam/rb25diagram.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...