Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Only just signed up to this forum so really excited to hear your thoughts and ideas when it comes to GTR financing.

At this stage i am looking to get one in the next 6-12 months - It's been on the shopping list for a while now and after just recently going off on my own and establishing my own business i am now in a position where i can afford to do it!

I'm most likely looking to buy one second hand (probabaly 2011-2012) and would prefer a balloon loan arrangement.

Does anyone have any advice for me regarding best interest rates out there atm, nissan financing (are they decent?), importing the car (is this even possible and a cheaper alternative?), any other advice you can give me

Thanks guys and look forward to hearing from you all

Jarret

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/435530-gtr-finance-options/
Share on other sites

You have quite a few options to finance your GTR. As it will be a used vehicle expect rates to be a little higher using major banks. I will eat my hat if NAB will do 5% on a used vehicle. A private broker or even dealer based finance will be your best bet. Be prepared and negotiate not just rate but any origination or brokerage fees.

And remember 5yr 30% balloon equals roughly $40k on a used GTR at $120k so be ready for when that comes around.

Hey Sam, who do you aggregate through?

To Jarret, if Sam isn't practical due to geographic location, let me know where you are and I'll put you in touch with a finance broker.

Also you won't get 5%. Expect closer to 10%.

mmmk so secured commercial loans will attract a lower rate not higher.

the trade of for this is you are not protected by the UCCC cosumer regulations, this realistically boils down to costing more if you cancel early and loosing some protection aginst charges, this is a very basic explanation.

i finance a few of these and im happy to help if you need. just pm me bud.

  • 2 weeks later...

If you are considering buying the vehicle through a dealership i would strongly suggest sitting down with a business manager and tell them you're comparing rates.

Firstly sit down with your bank and see what you can do, go back to the dealer and get them to better it.

This is what a lot of my customers do and end up saving themselves some money.

I am a business manager at Lynford Motors in WA. I Financed a 2010 GTR we sold a bloke in QLD and wasnt difficult.

Rates do depend on a lot but we have bigger buying power than most so our rates are usually a bit lower. A bit on 120K can be a lot though!!!

Give me a call if you want to discuss Jarret 08 9242 9061

I am a business manager at Lynford Motors in WA. I Financed a 2010 GTR we sold a bloke in QLD and wasnt difficult.

Rates do depend on a lot but we have bigger buying power than most so our rates are usually a bit lower. A bit on 120K can be a lot though!!!

Give me a call if you want to discuss Jarret 08 9242 9061

Ahhhh....I thought you were a finance broker.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...