Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ouch, just read this, sorry to hear about it Hanaldo, I think GPS is probably on my to-do list now, what with all these car (Skyline) thefts lately

do it.

I was similarly thinking of such measures but didn't get around to it. My car was stolen in Oct and still MIA...

Also security systems and immobilisers mean FA these days as the crims know it is on there. There are always stolen via the actual keys getting stolen.

Yep, gonna be making a keypad ignition cut and getting Gps tracking. Won't be as simple as taking my keys next time that's for sure. Realistically I know they can still steal bit if they really want to, but it makes it harder for them and gives me a chance.

I am thinking of selling the car now though. As much as I would miss it. I don't know if I will be able to enjoy it as much now, knowing what it's been through and what it's been used for. Not sure, need to have a good think about what I want now.

I am thinking of selling the car now though. As much as I would miss it. I don't know if I will be able to enjoy it as much now, knowing what it's been through and what it's been used for. Not sure, need to have a good think about what I want now.

wait till you get it back and assess its condition before you think along those lines. You never know how easy they have taken it until that point to avoid attention and what made them call it a day n dump it.

Otherwise, even if they have given it some berries often they just chew the clutch out in 5 mins and that's it.

compression test, gearbox check, and otherwise condition of the car. otherwise all else are replaceable consumables.

Yeh it's getting towed to my mechanic and full mechanical check. Will also purge the fuel tank, full oil and filter changes etc.

Unfortunately I know for a fact they've been raping it. Don't want to disclose too much here, but I have got witness accounts. The trouble with my car is the flex fuel tune wasn't finished. It wasn't meant to be driven hard on 98, that was only supposed to be a last resort type thing. But these guys have taken my car with a completely empty tank, and no doubt have no idea what E85 is. So they would have filled it up with 98 at a minimum but most likely 91 even. Then have been smashing it all over town, were involved in a high speed pursuit with police on Wednesday night, etc.

I will be very surprised if there is no damage.

Edited by Hanaldo

I take it you are now confident your car can out run the cops? Worst case engine is stuffed, insurance replaces it and hopefully your issues are fixed.

You've spent way too much time and money to give up on it.

Ah, then yes, I feel your sentiment of not wanting it back...

Insured I hope.?

Hahaha, when my car was stolen n the cops werent taking it seriously I told them they should take it seriously cos they will have f**k all chance of catching it if its in the right hands. Hopefully this teaches them...

Yeh apparently the car can do it, not confident at all that I could pilot it haha. 0 interest in trying either, god damn. I've got shit to live for, I really feel sorry for people that decide their lives are so worthless they would risk throwing them away like that.

As for motor, it still wouldn't go over my insurance excess. 3k excess, even if the motor was completely farked, I'd still have to fork out for it. Unless they funded building the motor :P

Car was left in Swan View, Brown Park.

Yeah I know the place

Well done on getting the car back in one piece

Best outcome ever for a stolen car let alone one thats been on the side of the road broken down for more than five minutes (smashed up or set on fire for larfs. . Or both)

Yeh the cops were equally amazed. Said they've never seen one left in such good condition. I do think they weren't done with it yet, that we got the car while they were in the process of robbing another place. Consider myself very lucky though, and it's a huge testament to the good that Facebook can do.

Be aware when it comes to robberies and break ins. . . Thieves do come back especially after they have checked out the place when they were first there, selling your 34 wont change that

Oh I am very much aware. Currently looking into getting roller shutters on all the windows, and security screens on my glass sliding doors. In the mean time I have a rather heavy 250ft/lb torque wrench sitting here beside me, would be a real shame if I were to accidentally swing it in surprise at somebody coming through my window...

  • Like 1

Sorry to hear you had to go through this, mate. These people are turds. Only thing that will put them off is a big dog. I have GPS tracking and high tech alarm - and a big dog. Secure parking at work and locked garage at home - with the dog able to roam around it! Make sure you get an independent assessment of your engine, transmission, suspension, wheels, tyres, etc. Anything the b'stards could have screwed. You need someone independent from your usual workshop to assess it so you can make a detailed claim. Even if the insurers will only pay for replacement with a stock motor, you need to prove the motor is stuffed to get replacement. Then buy back the usable parts from them and rebuild. Hopefully if you have declared the mods, they will pay for rebuild. Bear in mind that getting money from insurance companies is like getting blood from a stone. Hence an independent report. Witness reports of it being thrashed will help.

Best of luck. And I hope they find and hang the b'stards!

Bear in mind that getting money from insurance companies is like getting blood from a stone. Hence an independent report. Witness reports of it being thrashed will help.

often yes. but iv always found that Shannons are A1.

When my car was stolen (see my thread here for that one) they took 2.5 weeks to declare it written off, settled and money in my account without any mucking around.

They are truly awesome.

Good luck with yours though mate. n regardless of a good payout is that they have destroyed the think we loved and spent so many hours learning about, working on, and enjoying. N they just go n f**k it up. Lowest of the low.

That's no good, saw on fb. Excess is 3k.. Fkn hell. Too many kids writing these jap cars off and ruining it for the rest of us.

1 old trick is to leave the car key out in the open with the alarm key separate so when they unlock the car door they set the alarm off.

Also you don't keep wrenches or baseball bats around unless u want prison time, you use oven cleaner and aim for the eyes, holds up in court and has lasting effects.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
×
×
  • Create New...