Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yes that hose should go into the pipe the MAF is on. it is the cam cover breather hose.

that ticking noise could well be the common R33 timing belt cover resonance sound. very common to get it and for it then to disappear when the cover is off. nonetheless, it would be worth making sure it isn't the cam belt or any other belt rubbing on something or a bearing on its way out.

Finally, it doesn't sound like your BOV is working correctly as it shouldn't be building pressure and dosing that easily from my recollection. stock turbo and stock BOV?

from here you need to plug in with a consult and computer and make sure that the ECU is seeing correct temps (75-80deg when warm) and correct airflow figures as well as you are sure you don't have any boost leaks. often a leak between the turbo and the manifold will cause excessive rich running as its losing air from the system so their is too much fuel for the air that the engine ends up with... = black smoke and running rich.

Edited by jjman

yes that hose should go into the pipe the MAF is on. it is the cam cover breather hose.

that ticking noise could well be the common R33 timing belt cover resonance sound. very common to get it and for it then to disappear when the cover is off. nonetheless, it would be worth making sure it isn't the cam belt or any other belt rubbing on something or a bearing on its way out.

Finally, it doesn't sound like your BOV is working correctly as it shouldn't be building pressure and dosing that easily from my recollection. stock turbo and stock BOV?

from here you need to plug in with a consult and computer and make sure that the ECU is seeing correct temps (75-80deg when warm) and correct airflow figures as well as you are sure you don't have any boost leaks. often a leak between the turbo and the manifold will cause excessive rich running as its losing air from the system so their is too much fuel for the air that the engine ends up with... = black smoke and running rich.

Yes stock turbo and hks type bov like chinese copy or something.. but now everything works , the noise came because i didn't have gasket between CAS and the cover now the noise is gone, but i failed Emission test on idle..

Emissions IDLE

HC - 140

CO % - 1,7

02 % - 6,1

CO2 % - 8,8

Lambda - empty space

Emissions >2000rpm

HC - 58

CO % - 0,2

O2 % - 1,4

CO2 % - 14,4

Lambda 1,03

any ideas?

id say look at the AFM (do a search on faulty afm's)- though off the top of my head I cant remember if the AFM has an influence at idle.

Otherwise, you might find that you have put the CAS back on out of alignment and so the timing is retarded and not burning the fuel properly.

Also do a search on correct checking of the timing with a light (e.g. from plug 1, not the signal wire which can be a bit incorrect).

afm affects startup and idle. It was the first thing my tuner picked up on when i started the car. a new one will make a world of difference.

and you've done the right things to lean the car out. o2, water temp, thermostat. Now I'd be changing plugs, airfilter, and possibly taking it back to stock boost.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...