Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Wondering if i need another battery, (like 2) in the car to help start it or if the fuel pump is dying or not good enough


the issue i had was, left work tuesday on a 32 degree day, went to my local shops, came back to the car and was struggling to start, had voltage from gauge and starter motor was ticking over but no ignition, while this was going on i was pressing the accelerator but nothing was happening, finally it started after a minute of trying on and off with the key and gas.


But i constantly see a issue on hot days were sometimes it seems to bunny hop along from a stand still and i have to floor it for the car to fight through this heart attack it seems to have.


Sometimes the battery/voltage gauge is quite erratic on start up, so i don't know if all the aftermarket parts need a bit more battery juice to get them going. i can even see the headlights dimming up and down aswell as the stock internal clock on the dash
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/437333-battery-or-fuel-issue/
Share on other sites

Thought it could be the alternator probably hasn't changed from the factory, when i was turning the key on the day it was at 12 then the next day at 10 and started straight away.

Spoke to my mechanic reckons it could be a hot start issue were it gets to much/ not enough fuel.

So today happened again with the struggle to start while turning the key, got started, then as i was aproaching a turn flicked on the indicator, and my stereo stops playing.

Glance over at the battery gauge and its down to like 9 or 10 then flys back up to 15 and the stereo starts playing again, all happened in like 2 seconds.

  • 3 weeks later...

So been reading through some of the posts before seems a lot of whats happened to other people is the same for me. 1 other post said that they had a blown fuse?

Mechanic changed the fuel to add 20% more on start up and problem still there.

Took it to autobahn they can't find anything wrong, battery's fine. fuels fine. left

Took it to another auto electrician same thing battery's fine, fuels fine, but not really sure, said check the crank angle sensor?

Read that i should let the fuel pump prime, did this so key in ignition half on, and my battery gauge is between 8 then 10 then 11 then 8 then 10 all other place radio kicking in and out after 10 secs car still

Yo!, I was driving back home at 5 sunday arvo and i saw a speed camera, so started turning lights on and off to warn other drivers, every time i turn them on the radio stopped then started hope this narrows down the problem.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Yay!!!!!!!!! FML Same problems have re-occured put the key in this morning, half ignition, cd player flashed but didn't come on battery gauge reading 9 -10 volts.

But unbelievably starts without hesitation. Mechanic reckons car is drawing power from some were else and draining the battery.

I should have mentioned a while ago but my boost gauge temporarily works on and off aswell.

I don't have a upgraded sound system. all stock.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
    • I also used NP   That’s were it’s seems to be the best place to fit it? All schematic shows also that it’s should be referenced from the turbo housing. But idk, I do see high hp cars without any connection or anything to their turbos, so I really don’t know how they connect their things
    • I do have loctite 243 and 246 and a few more models. I could drill it now in place and make new threads for m12 and order an4 - m12 coupling and fit that to the turbo. Run a braided hose to the EBC which I could get a an4 to 1/8npt 
    • So M12 and sealant should be fine?    NPT ” because that’s what I had and what I could get atm. 
    • Wouldn’t touch par if they gave it to me. You need to ask how much power you’re looking to make and then add about 50% to it because that’s what you’ll end up making  The factory box says no more at about 350kw or so, the upgraded synchro boxes won’t handle much over 500kw for long and at that point you’re looking at an auto or dog engagement manual,  once you’ve gone dog engagement you may as well go sequential, they cost a little bit more but it’s worth it  also while you’re at it you should upgrade the transfer case with 10 friction plates 
×
×
  • Create New...