Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb26 Under Plenum, What Can Be Removed?

wild31

By wild31,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

wild31 Collaborator

wild31

Posted
Posted

Cleaning up the bay on my 32, I've removed the plenum so I can paint it.

Now I've come across this absolute dogs breakfast, and my OCD will not let it remain in the same state.

The car is only a weeknd cruiser, I've removed hicas, front hicas solenoid and lines, also removed as a/c and carbon canister.

Question I'm asking is all of this needed? Now obviously I know it's there for a reason, but taking in account what's been removed, is all of this still needed?, can things be re-run, blocked etc etc.theres also a few hoses that have been blocked off? I think one runs around the rear of the block and would explain why on the turbo side I've got a steel pipe that has short hoses which are also blocked off, think they went to the old accuators? Also can the AAC valve be removed or best to leave it? Any help is appreciated, any pics or diagrams of how to re route line etc will be greatly appreciated also. post-27243-13907169468328_thumb.jpg

Victory Mentor

Victory

Posted
Posted

Now that you have the manifold off it would be a good time to check and replace all of those small water hoses as it is a pain to be chasing a water leak with the manifold in place. You can pick up a complete silicon hose kit for less than $100 so it is not a great outlay.

wild31 Collaborator

wild31

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeah that's all part of the plan mate, I'm clearing out everything that isn't used, painting the bay as much as possible, with the engine still in it. Only because of corrosion caused by by battery. That why I'd like to find out what is needed and what can be done away with first. This may be a stupid question but bare with me, the heater hoses what are the for exactly? Mainly the 2 hick ones that run behind the block n into the firewall? I'd love to piss them off. Also are there any hoses you CANT USE, braided one on. Apart from vac lines

boostn0199 Grand Master

boostn0199

Posted
Posted
Yeah that's all part of the plan mate, I'm clearing out everything that isn't used, painting the bay as much as possible, with the engine still in it. Only because of corrosion caused by by battery. That why I'd like to find out what is needed and what can be done away with first. This may be a stupid question but bare with me, the heater hoses what are the for exactly? Mainly the 2 hick ones that run behind the block n into the firewall? I'd love to piss them off. Also are there any hoses you CANT USE, braided one on. Apart from vac lines

Those hoses go to the heater core so if you dont care about the heater you can get rid of them and just join them from where they orignally were.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • dbm7
      R34 Skyline climate control unit transistor

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • 25RBGT
      Got this r31 silhouette flood car to rebuild.

      By 25RBGT · Posted

      First time we have seen lights 
    • Wazmond
      WGNC34 - floor mats

      By Wazmond · Posted

      I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • soviet_merlin
      Howdy Y'all

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • soviet_merlin
      WGNC34 - floor mats

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...