Jump to content
SAU Community

Sound Deadening For General Road Noise - Worth It?

SS8_Gohan

By SS8_Gohan,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

SS8_Gohan Grand Master

SS8_Gohan

Posted
Posted

hi all,

had a chat with the PAC guys in Melbourne re: sound deadening just for general road noise, $1k job, floor doors, roof liner etc...

i'm keen to see if there is a big difference with getting this done... not a cheap exercise, but if it's a night and day type situation i'd probably be very keen to give it a shot.

yes i know it's an R, etc etc... but full Ti exhaust is plenty loud enough to hear the RB note whenever i would like :D, highway driving and what not would be nice to quiet down a bit.

so if anyone has done this to their car, i'd love to hear what you thought of the before and after.

thanks!

daniel

Leroy Peterson Grand Master

Leroy Peterson

Posted
Posted

im against sound deadening. got dynamat in the doors and there is little to praise it about with the cost, weight and such a pain in the ass to remove.

If general driving noise, much easier just get smaller wheels/less noisy tyres.

If exhaust noise... sound deadening in the boot and under seats should be enough. fark getting the roof and doors done. Save your wallet, and save the person who eventually buys the car off you :P

SS8_Gohan Grand Master

SS8_Gohan

Posted
  • Author
Posted

definitely wouldn't do it myself, it would be drop off to professionals to sort it out.

definitely not going smaller wheels, tyres :D

probably need to sit in a 34, or something equivalent, that's been done, see what it's like on the road....

junkie Mentor

junkie

Posted
Posted

Any missed spots from the factory under the carpet and rear seat would be a good start, followed by boot floor and boot lid. Doors are good for aftermarket audio and roof probably won't make a lot of difference

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • GTSBoy
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • Duncan
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By Duncan · Posted

      ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
    • Duncan
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, if it idles at 1000+ with the AAC, its not an idle airflow problem. The cold start valve just gives extra air when the engine is cold, but you have enough air without it to idle at 1000. I think you are back to a fuel problem, sorry. Can you see the fuel pressure staying constant or does it drop as the revs drop to a stall?  
×
×
  • Create New...