Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

PARTING OUT 1994 R33 SKYLINE GTS-T TURBO SUNROOF MODEL COMPLETELY STOCK!!!


rb25det s1 motor 135000ks with loom and ecu $1500

doors x4 $100ea 2 in maroon and 2 in gun metal grey

Koya Inox R1's 265/30z/R19 $800

brake calipers $300 or can separate $200 fronts $100 rears

r32 gtst front calipers $120

drivers side main window switch $50

Mspec front bar $100 needs a respray

radiator $100

bootlid $50

fmic intercooler $150

smic $100

rear taillights $100 pair

r33 s1 front bar reo $100

r33 radiator $100

r33 condenser $70

r33 gtst diff $200

half shafts $100

headlights $150ea

bonnet s2 $150

guards $100 ea

stock standard suspension $100

factory oem side skirts $150

factory oem rear pods $100

rear bar $50

3" exhaust from cat back $200

standed exhaust $100

Lsd diff $200

r33 floor mats $100


Rolling r33 shell sunroof model with stock wheels $600

or $500 with ur own wheels


FOR ANY OTHER PARTS CALL OR TEXT ME ON 0432-062-780 LOCATED IN MELBOURNE


post-62515-0-71117300-1393058606_thumb.jpg

post-62515-0-24191100-1393058651_thumb.jpg

post-62515-0-08819100-1393058700_thumb.jpg

post-62515-0-69682000-1393058849_thumb.jpg

post-62515-0-03183200-1393058899_thumb.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
×
×
  • Create New...