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selling my s14, great car but need to finish off a long term project car.

always serviced every 5000km with motul oil, filters, plugs

used as my daily for 16months with no issues

this is a very well set up daily/weekend racecar. always driven to and from the track.

has been used mainly for drifting, it is not a show car! some clear coat is peeling.

all parts are genuine, no china parts.

still has aircon

currently located in Wodonga, Victoria

95 ADM 200sx

182000km , 5spd, 220kw@18psi

full hks 2540 kit

3 inch exhaust

hybrid fmic

oil cooler and relo kit

sard 550's

walbro 355 pump

link g4 plugin

yelow jacket coil packs

k&n filter in std airbox

tein ha coilovers

whiteline adjustable sway bars

whiteline front strut brace

dba 4000 series rotors all round, front 324mm rotor conversion

braided brake lines

gktech camber, toe and castor

defi triple din gauge

b&m short shifter

sparco steering wheel

$9000 as is, no rego or rwc, currently rego'd in QLD

price is firm as you could not build it for this price

pm for phone number

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  • Latest Posts

    • How would you even adjust the clutch if the pedal already has the correct free play? The operating cylinder has no adjustment in mounting position or rod length. On pull style clutches there is also no ability to adjust the bearing carrier. Push type I can see how adjusting the carrier height makes it all work.   If this is the twin plate clutch did you verify that your friction disks were oriented correctly? It's not mentioned in the directions at all you just have to notice that one side the friction disks have a part number on the hub fingers and a subtle coning to those fingers. Another thing that I noticed was if you put the friction disks in backwards the pressure plate fingers will not be even and flat when the clutch is installed.
    • yeah, mechanically, it is probably do-able, off the top of my head, there would be the transfer case, which I believe will bolt up to the rear of the RWD transmission, the shorter rear tail shaft. A front drive shaft, front diff, engine upper sump, front drive shafts, front hubs and front AWD struts (they are shaped around the front drive shafts), LCAs (at the very least from the front suspension) oil cooler.  You might want the rear diff from an AWD too, so you can be certain the front and rear diff rations are identical.  Who knows what brackets and mounts you might need.  So a whole doner car might be the best option if you need to maintain RHD. Then actually making it work, that would be a whole different story.
    • Take the fall as a warning sign for future endeavours  Stay safe mate
    • hi mate, HKS cooler piping still available by any chance?
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