Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all I'm trying to sort out some wayward vac lines in my engine bay. I've just bought the car and it has two bov's fitted, the factory one and a blitz one, and I'm trying to delete the blitz one and get the car through a roadworthy. From what I've read on here the factory one should suit my needs so I'll probably just leave the blitz one off. This is my first skyline, and in fact first turbo car so I'm flying blind a little here.

The blitz bov has a line attached which runs back to the intake mani collector, to a fitting identified in the manual as "to canister". The factory bov appears to be correctly connected as far as I can tell.

From the top of the throttle body there is a hose which is terminated with a bolt (visible under the Nissan logo in first pic) - although the fitting on the throttle body is visible in the manual, it's not identified for some reason so I'm wondering where this goes?

Lastly there is a random metal line (second pic) next to the radiator which is not blocked or connected to anything. I tried to follow it and I THINK it runs along the rail and across the firewall then possibly down under the car. Can anyone identify this for me? Could this be the mysterious "to canister" line?

Thanks.

post-133052-0-46196500-1393927669_thumb.jpg post-133052-0-64275200-1393927643_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/440079-help-identifying-factory-vac-lines/
Share on other sites

the blocked pipe from the TB and the metal line are both for your charcoal canister which has obviously been removed...the line going to your blitz BOV is also meant to go to charcoal canister, just block it off with a bolt.....it an also be used for a boost controller if you run one...

Also check your stock BOV hasn't been blocked off with a metal plate or something

  • Like 1

ok thanks mate. Where would the charcoal canister normally be located - up front near that open metal line? Any idea if its absence (or having blocked vac lines) is likely to be a problem for a roadworthy inspection?

As for checking the stock bov, do I just check where the whole unit mounts to the flange as well as under the larger hose that runs back to inlet?

One other random question that's bugging me: the radiator fan spins full-time - is this normal or shouldn't it be switched on temp? I read some threads saying they can seize up but mine still spins freely by hand when the engine is off

Charcoal canister should be mounted up front next to the metal pipe and will be a roadworthy issue.

See in the Green Circle.

post-78856-0-97666000-1393935055_thumb.jpg

Unbolt the BOV from the flange, there should be a gasket with a hole in it.
If there's no hole it's blocked.

Radiator fan always spins and if you can turn it by hand easily it's not seized.

yeah its located right where the metal line is...depends on who does RWC ..i got mine passed without one but looking at all that brown crud on your radiator its looking like its pretty messy mate...best way to get past any RWC is first of all have a clean car..And yes that includes your engine and undercarriage

Just take the 2 bolts off the stock BOV..there might be a flat plate blocking it off...if not good...

Fan will always spin...it just loads up at temp but it will always spin...

Yeah planning to clean it up its just red dust from up here. This is actually after I hosed it once the stuff was everywhere under the car

My rwc guy isn't too picky, but if there's obviously something missing - like a bunch of vac lines with bolts in them - he might send me home. If I cant find a canister locally I might just try to slip it past him :)

Thanks heaps for help guys. Hopefully on the road SOON

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This is for an RB20DET. Sorry for not including that. 
    • Welp, this is where my compression lands after my rebuild. Thoughts? I have ~6 hours on the motor. 
    • Well, after the full circus this week (new gearbag, 14 psi actuator on, injectors and AFM upgraded, and.....turbo repair) the diagnosis on the wastegate is in. It was broken. It was broken in a really strange way. The weld that holds the lever arm onto the wastegate flapper shaft broke. Broke completely, but broke in such a way that it could go back together in the "correct" position, or it could rearrange itself somewhere else along the fracture plane and sit with the flapper not parallel to the lever. So, who knows how and when exactly what happened? No-one will ever know. Was it broken like this the first time it spat the circlip and wedged itself deep into the dump? Or was it only broken when I tried to pry it back into place? (I didn't try that hard, but who knows?). Or did it break first? Or did it break between the first and second event of wierdness? Meh. It doesn't matter now. It is welded back together. And it is now held closed by a 14 psi actuator, so...the car has been tuned with the supporting mods (and the order of operations there is that the supporting mods and dyno needed to be able to be done first before adding boost, because it was pinging on <<14 psi with the new turbo with only a 6 psi actuator). And then tuned up a bit, and with the boost controller turned off throughout that process. So it was only running WG pressure and so only hit about 15-16 psi. The turbo is still ever so slightly lazier than might be preferred - like it is still a bit on the big side for the engine. I haven't tested it on the road properly in any way - just driven it around in traffic for a half hour or so. But it is like chalk and cheese compared to what it was. Between dyno numbers and driving feedback: It makes 100 kW at 3k rpm, which is OK, could be better. That's stock 2JZ territory, or RB20 with G series 550. It actually starts building boost from 2k, which is certainly better than it did recently (with all the WG flapper bullshit). Although it's hard to remember what it was like prior to all that - it certainly seems much, much better. And that makes sense, given the WG was probably starting to blow open at anything above about 3 psi anyway (with the 6 psi actuator). It doesn't really get to "full boost" (say 16 psi) until >>4k rpm. I am hopeful that this is a feature of the lack of boost controller keeping boost pressure off the actuator, because it was turned off for the dyno and off for the drives afterward. There's more to be found here, I'm sure. It made 230 rwkW at not a lot more than 6k and held it to over 7k, so there seems to be plenty of potential to get it up to 250-260rwkW with 18 psi or so, which would be a decent effort, considering the stock sized turbo inlet pipework and AFM, and the return flow cooler. According to Tao, those things should definitely put a bit of a limit on it by that sort of number. I must stress that I have not opened the throttle 100% on the road yet - well, at least not 100% and allowed it to wind all the way up. It'll have to wait until some reasonable opportunity. I'm quite looking forward to that - it feels massively better than it has in a loooong time. It's back to its old self, plus about 20% extra powers over the best it ever did before. I'm going to get the boost controller set up to maximise spool and settle at no more than ~17 psi (for now) and then go back on the dyno to see what we can squeeze out of it. There is other interesting news too. I put together a replacement tube to fit the R35 AFM in the stock location. This is the first time the tuner has worked with one, because anyone else he has tuned for has gone from Z32 territory to aftermarket ECU. No-one has ever wanted to stay Nistuned and do what I've done. Anyway, his feedback is that the R35 AFM is super super super responsive. Tiny little changes in throttle position or load turn up immediately as a cell change on the maps. Way, way more responsive than any of the old skool AFMs. Makes it quite diffifult to tune as you have to stay right on top of that so you don't wander off the cell you wanted to tune. But it certainly seems to help with real world throttle response. That's hard to separate from all the other things that changed, but the "pedal feel" is certainly crisp.
    • I'm a bit confused by this post, so I'll address the bit I understand lol.  Use an air compressor and blow away the guide coat sanding residue. All the better if you have a moisture trap for your compressor. You'd want to do this a few times as you sand the area, you wouldn't for example sand the entire area till you think its perfect and then 'confirm' that is it by blowing away the guide coat residue.  Sand the area, blow away the guide coat residue, inspect the panel, back to sanding... rinse and repeat. 
×
×
  • Create New...