Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I recently bought an old skyline of a friend, it was running 1 bar boost pressure (standard rb25 with bigger rear housing) and ran perfectly fine, but turbo used to blow bit of smoke while under load, so it was replaced with a standard rb25 turbo (ceramic blades) and works perfectly fine upto 0.5 bar (roughly standard boost) but anything more than that it, makes the car shudder/shake/jolt violently, like a huge flat spot, that you can not get past, I checked all my coil packs visual and measured resistance every thing was fine, checked my plugs they all looked fine checked gaps, replaced fuel filter. I don't think it is a fuel issue or exhaust blockage, because when you set boost 0.5 bar it happily revs to 7k rpm,. Going to do compression test soon.

I have search all over Internet and can't find anything, I was wondering if any one has heard of anything like this or may know the possible cause, it is hard to describe over Internet, be easier to show,

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/440448-r32-turbo-issue/
Share on other sites

Is it making any noises? Whooshing really high pitched or anything like that with the shuddering of the car? Do you have a boost gauge installed, if so is the boost spiking?

Reason I ask is because my old op6 was surging, causing the car to jolt and shudder. It was set to 10psi but was spiking to 14psi and making a definitive high pitched whine/whooshing noise. If its that, its very dangerous for the turbo and engine and I would recommend dropping the boost right back to a point where it no longer does it, or getting a new turbo.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/440448-r32-turbo-issue/#findComment-7226534
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bummer...yeah i "need" something to "ease" up the work and for my driving it would be enough.    Iam counting the tune "without" turbo. I do not mean "cheap" like something from Temu around 200 USD, "Cheap" is something around 1000 USD? 
    • Starter motors used to use the weight of metal (magnets) to provide torque. Now they use (more) current instead. This. It's completely normal.
    • So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
    • OK, few more things sorted and it is ready for a shakedown on 10-Oct, with one weird thing. Changed the run in oil and filter for the good stuff. 8l came out, about 8.5 went in with filter so that looks all good. Changed the starter (again), this time for a brand new one, works good. Interesting that the Taaaarks one is shorter than factory but spins harder, I guess electronics have moved on a little in the last 30 years. Will be nice to have a bit of extra space under there. Put the timing cover back on, and noted where the cam gears were set as a record.  Will need to double check the timing but it is pretty close. Also put the coil pack cover and intake snorkel back on. Exhaust Inlet Changed the water out for coolant, bled up nicely. Removed the rear brake pads (well worn factory sumitomo ones!), gave the hardware a good clean and reassembled. I've put bendix XP on the back again because the price is excellent at $150 a set and they worked well on the V37. Front pads have plenty so no issue there
×
×
  • Create New...