Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

FS - Haltech PS2000 with uncut / unused short loom + sensors

Selling a pretty much unused haltech ps2000 with short autospec flying loom.

The ECU was powered up via a smart wire and I began to load stuff in for a 2j.

No longer needed, looking for $2200 negotiable.

I have the mounting kit for it, I don't like them, I have no need for it so I will also include that.

I also have an AEM 3.5 bar map sensor that I will include for an extra $50

I also have a couple of coolant and air temp sensors that I'll never use again, one requires connector with plugs, $20 each.

Probably some other crap that goes with it that I wont ever be using like techflex braid.

Located on the Gold Coast, pick up is welcome, otherwise buyer pays postage.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Hey,

I'm considering one of these with a long loom but your price is quite high for a second hand unit :-(.

Your short loom version is listed on haltech site for $2,354.95 delivered.

OK. I am saving you $155 for a unit that's only been powered up, flashed to the latest firmware and had a supra load file configured to the ecu. Its hardly even been used. Its never ran an engine and its still with the original box, USB cable and software CD.

No one stopping you from buying the same thing direct from haltech for more money or you can save a little and buy mine.

I dont know what gives you entitlement to comment that my second hand ecu is priced quite high but I honestly don't care.

If you want to post links up to the same package as I have that's sold or advertised for less than what I'm asking for then please feel free to do so.

If my price is an issue for you then look elsewhere. I'm in no rush to sell it and could easily still keep it for a future project.

Thanks

  • 2 weeks later...

Did you even read the first post I made?

$2200 negotiable, with the mounting kit and a number of sensors at a reduced price?

If you're interested then why don't you put your money where your mouth is and make me an offer?

Worst I can say is no.

I have an engine lined up that I can use it for but if someone wants to give me a good offer then I'll sell it and wait for their Elite ecu to be released.

Either way, I don't really care as this will run the engine just fine.

Thankfully neither one of us really care :-)

Not suited to my needs as chasing one with long flying loom which comes with new, however alone is $500+

unavoidably will be buying one new closer to build completion.

GL.

Haha

You're a Muppet.

Firstly you cannot even read then you whinge and moan that its not cheap enough now you're saying its not suited to your needs.

Have fun paying full retail.

f**king idiot

  • Like 2

Bla bla bla said the foul mouthed bogan!

Oh hang on there's a heap of people lining up to buy your overpriced sh!t.

Full retail? Ha!

Right back at ya douchebag :-)

Edited by pauls

You want to sort this out in person?

Overpriced shit? I don't get why you cannot get it through your head that it says negotiable. Its been negotiable since the day it was advertised.

Dumb people like yourself annoy me. You cannot read. You continue to comment on the price after being told several times that its negotiable. What is so hard to understand about that?

Calling it shit too? You've admitted that you'll have to buy one yourself!

You need to put your lack of money back into an education because you really are one dumb f**king idiot.

I'm glad you continue to post, everyone can see how much if a complete retard you are! Please keep posting too.

Edited by [200]
  • 1 month later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Ah. OK. I take it back. I hadn't looked closely at the R33/4 arms and presumed that GKTech did as GKTech do everywhere else, which is to use sphericals there. The poly bushings are made to be 100% interchangeable, should use the standard bolt just fine. Every other bush in every other place in pretty much every other car, does.
    • @silviaz Ok cool, so much easier with a video. I can see why this video would be confusing for new players.   It is obvious that this entire bonnet is going to be resprayed, have a look in the background around 2:05, you can see a bunch of bare metal on the left side of the bonnet.  It's not an issue for the primer being laid down on the non-prepped clear on the bonnet. It will be sanded off at a later stage.  This might not be obvious to new players, but working on bare metal and factory paint in this instance, the factory paint is like a mountain and the bare metal is a huge valley. The bonnet needs to be levelled flat before it receives it's final stage of colour and clear coat. During this levelling process, the primer that is landing on the clear that you are worried about will be removed.  Also, this guy is out of control. Zero PPE while spraying, maybe he is a good example overall about what not to do lol.
    • Ok I FINALLY found a video lol. This took way longer than it should have as I could have sworn I saw multiple videos like this. I kept finding the completely opposite (the correct way of doing this). I wouldn't be surprised if I f**ked this up somehow.  I just realised where I've been getting confused and even with other things I work on. I haven't been doing things the regular way instead I'm going a roundabout way of doing things, like putting epoxy primer first then filler for example instead of putting just filler then primer on top of that, then wondering what happens if I get that primer on the clear coat that I haven't sanded yet. This was a bit of an epiphany 馃槀  But anyways, here this video. Time stamp, 2:56, some of the primer lands on the paint unscuffed above. You can see from the reflection it looks shiny.  
    • It does, this part circled in red. I assume the OEM bolt might not work well with the poly bushing because the dimensions may be different?
    • The J arm doesn't have bushes either. Assuming that by "J arm" you mean the part of the upright that runs down from the upper arm's outer bushes to the top of the hub. That has a kingpin style bearing in it. If you meant the lower control arm, it has 1 bush, at its inner end. If you have PU in there, that is superior to Nismo rubber. If you meant the caster/tension rod - it has 1x bush at the front end, and again PU is superior to Nismo rubber. But as I said above, I would definitely get the GKTech arms for that, as sphericals slay all other options there.
  • Create New...