Jump to content
SAU Community

Stock 1994 Series 1 Gts-T Coupe, Starting Issues.

Bane33
 Share

Recommended Posts

Bane33 Newbie

Bane33

Posted
Posted

Hi Guys,

I have been hanging around here quietly for some time and thought now was a good time to introduce myself by seeking some guidance from you.

As indicated, i have a 94 R33 Coupe, I have had the vehicle for 14 years this year, I don't drive it a great deal, lifestyle more than anything, 3 kids simply dont fit and I simply refuse to sell her. I am the only Australian owner and second owner of the car in its history.

As such when i do, i have noticed that more often she just will not start unless jumped.

I have followed the below process to date:

I have cleaned the battery fittings,

I have checked the battery, refilled the distilled water, and reharged on a mains recharger to no avail.

I took it for a day drive, running it until it was required to be refueled, however obce fueled she would not restart, but would jump start.

I have replaced battery and still the same issues occur.

Usually Lubemobile service it, that way it doesn't leave my sight in the hands of a mechanic.

Any advice or direction would be much appreciated, I do miss driving her and would certainly do so more if this little issue could be rectified.

Regards to you all.

Bane33 Newbie

Bane33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ok, thanks to some much appreciated advice, I have added some more information regarding the above,

When i try to start her after not driving her for some time, and turn the igntion switich to acc., no lights on the dash turn on.

I then turn the ignition and there is a click but nothing at all.

When i go jump her from this state, with the leads attached to the actual battery of both cars and i turn to acc., immediately the dash lights up and the mirrors unfold quickly, and the boot light comes on.

I then turn the ignition and the car fires almost immediately and falls to a steady idles smoothly.

To clarify that, the engine will bite once, then fire straight away, or other times it will immedately start.

When i turn the ignition, the car never spins on the starter for any prolonged lenght of time, she will always ignite either first time or after that first bite.

There is no undue noise coming from the started motor during this process or upon idle.

When i drive the car, there are no other obvious issues, since the first day she has been a very smooth. Unique Auto Sport in Sydney used to service her and noted a near perfect compression test a few years ago now.

I hope that that assists in gaining further advice,

Thanks very much,

Regards

  • 2 months later...
33Bane Rookie

33Bane

Posted
Posted

Well, after a couple of weeks mucking about, it turns out that the new battery I had fitted had dropped a cell, so another new one and everything is fine.

As it has been kind of fun tinkering with this old thing again, i have decided to muck about with it some more.

As such, can anyone confirm that the instructions in the attached Youtube video for changing brake fluid would be relevant to a Skyline?

Are they any Skyline specific issues i should be aware of whilst attempting this?

Cheers,

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Murray_Calavera
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      The fab work can be as simple as a couple of silicon hoses and clamps to the factory piping. 
    • joshuaho96
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Just sounds like either way you need to do some fab work to get everything to fit, so why limit yourself at that point? If the GCG high flow option is zero effort in and out swap though I'd probably do that. It's almost certainly lowest risk, lowest cost, etc. The HKS GTIII-RS option that Kapr mentioned is laughably expensive for what it is, they charge the exact same for two turbos on the RB26 so their margins are off the charts on that thing.
    • GTSBoy
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Intake manifold is not a part of the issue. The turbo bolts to the exhaust manifold. That is easy. But close your eyes and picture the physical situation. That is a T3 flange on the manifold and a T3 flange on the turbo. As long as any new turbo has a T3 flange on the exhaust housing, that exhaust housing will bolt to the exhaust manifold. This places the exhaust housing in the same place as the stock one. But now move your mental attention a little further forward. The location of the compressor housing is set by the length of the turbo's core. The stock turbo had a long core. Let's say that it is..... 100mm long. So that would place the compressor housing 100mm forward of the exhaust housing. But a highflow, might well have a centre core that is shorter. Let's say that it is only 70mm long. Now the compressor housing will be 30mm further back in the engine bay than the stock one. This DOES move the turbo's compressor outlet backwards. It also moves the compressor's inlet backwards. You will very likely have to do some work to both the inlet and outlet piping to make everything connect again. I am not say this to make it out to be a bigger deal than it is. I am just pointing out that "bolt on" is sometimes not quite bolt on. The highflow from GCG that Murray linked above (https://gcg.com.au/turbo-charger-upgrade-skyline-gtst-2iu-xtrgts-s1.html ) uses a core that is the same length as the stock core, and so does not require this extra work. It will look very much like the stock turbo. No-one uses GTR turbos of any flavour (stock, or aftermarket) in a single turbo application on RB20/25. It's not a thing. Yes, people have been putting on GT3076, GTX3076 (and bigger and smaller versions of those) and G30s (of various sizes) onto RB20/25 since forever. But these are not "bolt on". Everything except the 4 bolts to the exhaust manifold change with these. And genuine Garretts are expensive. Non-gen, like Pulsar, etc, are cheaper, variously as good or nearly as good. But still not bolt on. No-one in the right mind would pay for an HKS turbo. Not in this modern day and age. Well, yes, the GCG highflow. You could ask HG what he can do to make the compressor housing sit in the original location. There are surely others doing highflows around the world. And some of the eBay/Temu ones (as reported by Dose) work and don't die. Bit of a lottery though. I would send your turbo to GCG (here in Oz) to be highflowed if you want a trivial no-extra-work option. But seriously, the work required to change inlet and outlet piping is not that hard. That's a boost control problem, not a turbo problem.
    • Kapr
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By Kapr · Posted

      Thank you all for the replys 🙂 I know that intake would be different but that is one pipe at it is not that hard to get(custom one). I meant mainly bolt to the stock manifold and the turbo elbow. I looked and many sites/forums but they are just "old" with some old HKS turbos from GT-R i guess? What about some Garrets?  Or any other turbo? Is there even a turbo which i can just bolt on? 😄 And yeah i know about that new HKS but that is like 2000k USD without taxes/shipping in here   Iam getting a touch up tune but my "problem" is that on the "not" hot day iam getting peaks around 0,9 bar...and when it was around 15 Celsious i saw peak around 1 bar which is just too much for stock turbo. And of course turbo is old and i like to get some new one for a piece of mind 🙂 
    • GTSBoy
      new here

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I'm working on the assumption that our friend Jasmine here is a Russian (or, possibly Ukrainian) spammer/spambot, based purely on the number of such that I have been having to neuter in the last few weeks. IP address for the OP above was in WA. But that could have been via VPN. Posting at quarter to 4 in the morning is a good sign of being from somewhere in Europe. The last Jasmine that I kicked in the cooch was IP addressed in Ukraine. Even that could have been via VPN, and the bitchbot could have been from Russia, Serbia, China or anywhere. Regardless, was a spambot, so I killed it with fire. The fact that our new friend Jasmine here did not respond in any way to my tart query strongly suggests to me that this OP was just the establishment phase of a user able to be activated for spamming in a week, or 3 or 10.
×
×
  • Create New...