Jump to content
SAU Community

Stock 1994 Series 1 Gts-T Coupe, Starting Issues.


Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

I have been hanging around here quietly for some time and thought now was a good time to introduce myself by seeking some guidance from you.

As indicated, i have a 94 R33 Coupe, I have had the vehicle for 14 years this year, I don't drive it a great deal, lifestyle more than anything, 3 kids simply dont fit and I simply refuse to sell her. I am the only Australian owner and second owner of the car in its history.

As such when i do, i have noticed that more often she just will not start unless jumped.

I have followed the below process to date:

I have cleaned the battery fittings,

I have checked the battery, refilled the distilled water, and reharged on a mains recharger to no avail.

I took it for a day drive, running it until it was required to be refueled, however obce fueled she would not restart, but would jump start.

I have replaced battery and still the same issues occur.

Usually Lubemobile service it, that way it doesn't leave my sight in the hands of a mechanic.

Any advice or direction would be much appreciated, I do miss driving her and would certainly do so more if this little issue could be rectified.

Regards to you all.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok, thanks to some much appreciated advice, I have added some more information regarding the above,

When i try to start her after not driving her for some time, and turn the igntion switich to acc., no lights on the dash turn on.

I then turn the ignition and there is a click but nothing at all.

When i go jump her from this state, with the leads attached to the actual battery of both cars and i turn to acc., immediately the dash lights up and the mirrors unfold quickly, and the boot light comes on.

I then turn the ignition and the car fires almost immediately and falls to a steady idles smoothly.

To clarify that, the engine will bite once, then fire straight away, or other times it will immedately start.

When i turn the ignition, the car never spins on the starter for any prolonged lenght of time, she will always ignite either first time or after that first bite.

There is no undue noise coming from the started motor during this process or upon idle.

When i drive the car, there are no other obvious issues, since the first day she has been a very smooth. Unique Auto Sport in Sydney used to service her and noted a near perfect compression test a few years ago now.

I hope that that assists in gaining further advice,

Thanks very much,

Regards

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Well, after a couple of weeks mucking about, it turns out that the new battery I had fitted had dropped a cell, so another new one and everything is fine.

As it has been kind of fun tinkering with this old thing again, i have decided to muck about with it some more.

As such, can anyone confirm that the instructions in the attached Youtube video for changing brake fluid would be relevant to a Skyline?

Are they any Skyline specific issues i should be aware of whilst attempting this?

Cheers,

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This morning I carefully reinstalled the manifold and started looking at a couple of things I need to do.  Heat wrap arrived sometime today so I popped into the shed with the missus dishwashing gloves and started wrapping the first half of the dump and the screamer/plumb back.  Once I do the second half I'll be able to final fit the turbo and exhaust up.  Also pulled the harness out today and started terminating it at the ECU end. A connector is done, just need to run the remaining wires that arent in the harness - 12v, gnd and couple I/O
    • A31 is pretty much the same thing without HiAIDS I mean CAS, no improvement lol. Not to late to send it.
    • Thanks for all the replies! I also wanted to ask if wheels that were fitted on Ford Falcons would fit the 350GTs as well? In the area I'm at there aren't that many options for secondhand wheels and new ones here are way out of my budget. From what I've seen, most of the wheels that are available that were fitted on Ford Falcons have an offset of +33 to +36, with a centre bore of 70.5mm whereas the stock 350GT's ones are 66mm, can't seem to find any hubcentric rings that fit that difference though. 
    • 215/45/18 tyres are probably a little on the low side compared to the factory tyre, it should be closer to a 245/45/19, which will get you about an extra 11mm of height, and should make you speedo read a bit closer to reality. 245/45/19s will be a bit too far the other way and you risk a speeding ticket as your speedo might read slower than your actual speed.  245/40/19s would be correct if you are going to 19in rims, they will give you a similar total diameter to the 245/45/18 tyres.  
    • That's something I forgot to put in my list. The aggressive anti-squat in R32 is a f**king menace. I still need to decide if I'm going to drag the subframe out of my car and weld in the GKTech corrector kit. The main reason to dither is the need to switch to spherical joints in the lower arm to account for the twist induced in the rear pivot caused by lowering the front pivot. And yes...we do put better subframes in R32s, and I wish I'd gotten an S14 one instead of an A31 when I did the "take off and nuke it from orbit" HICAS delete all those years ago.
×
×
  • Create New...