Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys



I have a R33 GTS25T series 1 Auto



when I turn it on it is idling like it is running on 5 cylinders, there is a strong smell of fuel



on 2 occasions it has stalled, i took the car for a run thinking it was a injector but the car was very unresponsive, at first the car wouldn't get over 40KMPH and i had my foot nearly flat, i took it out of drive and into 1st and floored it i pushed it into second and didn't go into second until I got over 6000RPM then it jumped into second.



once I got the car to around 80 it was going fine. then I slowed down to take a corner and it started running sluggish and strong smell of fuel again. until I got over 40



please people I need help :/


Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/440783-r33-gtst-series-1-idlerunning-rough/
Share on other sites

  • Yeah mate plugs are fine.
  • i am running on all 6 just sounds like its not.
  • injectors I'm not 100% sure about
  • fuel is BP 98 the usual I run it on

I'm wondering if it could be the Air flow meter does that sound like something the AFM would do? :/

It could be the AFM. If you can get a hold of one to borrow and try out I would do that

If the plugs are fine, the fuel is good and the injectors are firing right (and arent dribbling fuel etc) then it could be AFM

it could also be a boost/vac leak. Do you have an atmo bov?

  • 3 weeks later...

Same problem here. All cylinders are firing but sounds like its running 5. Have a fuel pressure gauge and far as I guess, they're not leaking down once the car is off since it holds pressure for hours. Compression is solid. I haven't done a leak down test yet but I'm leaning towards a bad igniter or AFM. Let me know if swapping the AFM works. Going to change the fuel filter too.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ahhh, I need the whole head unit. I definitely needed to roll back through and review your setup, ha ha! Neat setup they have going on. I just need a full double din head unit. But I want good and responsive. I might have to review what the likes of pioneer have out these days.
    • Ok so after much research and talking with knowledgeable people I've got my turbo conversion done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.  Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd. But nothing drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic.  I'm sure there is may e 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Dose anyone here have any ideas?   Cheers guys
    • Sorry I haven't been following all the detail, so you may have tried this. Does it idle with the tiniest bit of throttle you can add? You've mentioned the IACV, does it have an AAC valve and have you adjusted it at all (ie, screw the idle adjust screw all the way in, then back it out a couple of turns until idle is stable)?
    • My bad, I unplugged the one underlined in red instead of yellow before. With the car started, after unplugging the IACV (the one underlined in yellow), it idled at around 400/500 for 3 seconds before stalling. Attempting to start the car without the IACV will not start the car.   It does stutter and sputter for around 5 seconds before dying. However, immediately after starting it, you can already hear some slight sputters from the exhaust.   It won't start with the AFM unplugged. If it is when the car has already started, it stalls in a few seconds.   Yesterday, I did take some logs using Nistune of 3 scenarios. Car idling till it stalls Car idling and unplugging the IACV Car idling and removing the AFM I also have some previous logs of when the Car is idling till it stalls and when driving and it cuts. I am not really knowledgeable enough to understand what to look for. After every test, car idles rougher and rougher, until I have to stop. It will be fine the day after.
    • There is no difference between a 17x8 and an 18x8. The total diameter of the tyre needs to remain +/- the same (so you don't mess up the gearing, speedo reading, and clearance when turning front wheels..... so you just need to use a lower profile tyre on th 18 than you do on the 17. /rocket surgery.
×
×
  • Create New...