R34 Losing Power

[kyle345]

But anyway i need somehow to diagnose what the problem is exactly, if anyone has gone through this issue too

[533 RYC]

Hmm doubt its CAS or AFM. Because its not throwing a primary ign code.

I wonder why its only sluggish when it starts cold but if i start it hot its heaps better.

Thinking about giving it an AT service and replace that solenoid because i know thats the reason why sometimes AT light comes on and gets stuck in 3rd (common problem after they reach 140,000)

But sluggish wise i dont think its the AT

Get a set of shift solenoids, replacement INTERNAL loom (as most of the retaining clips will most likely break as soon as you try to undo them) for the tranny, fresh oil & a pickup kit.

Check to see if you can drain the converter (if they have drain bolts - most modern ones dont!?!) without removing it, if so, drain & get enough fluid for the refill. Do you know how to fill a converter?

Cold fluid with a malfunctioning shift solenoid will cause the engine to over work, hence the knock sensor code, ecu has reached max retard......

[kyle345]

Get a set of shift solenoids, replacement INTERNAL loom (as most of the retaining clips will most likely break as soon as you try to undo them) for the tranny, fresh oil & a pickup kit.

Check to see if you can drain the converter (if they have drain bolts - most modern ones dont!?!) without removing it, if so, drain & get enough fluid for the refill. Do you know how to fill a converter?

Cold fluid with a malfunctioning shift solenoid will cause the engine to over work, hence the knock sensor code, ecu has reached max retard......

Thanks for your help, yeah i can fill a converter, you make perfect sense in what your saying also in cold fluid making it run bad and causing knock sensor, always thought it was something to do with the AT.

Will drop the pan and replace solenoids see how it goes, where can i get the kit from? I know they come in a set of 3 i believe.

Cheers for your input