Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a R33 and the antenna wire that goes to the rear mast was cut. Anyone know where I can get a replacement or repair parts to splice it back together? I'm located in the US so I couldn't go to the local audio shop to get a replacement since we use a different style of ends. In the past, I've tried soldering it back together but it never sounds the same.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441153-replacing-the-antenna-wire/
Share on other sites

Its just coaxial as far as I know. Find a place that does television antenna cables and talk to someone about a joiner

The end that goes into the back of the head unit over here is available from automotive electrical shops but seen as you said things are different over there not so sure.

Technically it should be japanese wiring anyway

After calling around and going to a few different places, I've figured that I'll just run a powered antenna that some of the audio shops have. They're like $40 for something decent. Just wondering if you or anyone else might seen a website that has repair kits for these things. I googled it and came up with all kinds of results that got me nowhere. It's cut at a foots length before the rear mast. Guess the guys at the body shop felt it was easier to cut it than to unplug it from the mast. Just one more thing to spend unnecessary money on. I'd prefer to fix it cause I like keeping things like that oem. Thanks for the input.

I told you, it should be coaxial. As long as there is a little bit of cable still hanging out of the antenna you should be able to use a joiner like this and a bit of extra coax to fix it

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/COAX-CABLE-QUICK-JOINER-CONNECTOR-/281204431676

I told you, it should be coaxial. As long as there is a little bit of cable still hanging out of the antenna you should be able to use a joiner like this and a bit of extra coax to fix it

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/COAX-CABLE-QUICK-JOINER-CONNECTOR-/281204431676

That's exactly what I was looking for. Problem I was having is all the coax repair kits that I found are for 1/2" diameter. Plus I didn't even think to look on the Australian eBay. Thanks !

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...