Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You will definetly get 400rwkws out of the upgraded low mounts (2530, T517Z, AX's), but you would be running a sh!t load of boost... Might wanna have a forged bottom end too to handle this kind of boost and power...

Otherwise big single (T78), or twin high mounts (TD06's) should do the job with ease....

you would really be pushing it for twin lowmounts to make 400rwkw. You want turbo(s) that will still be within peak efficiency to make the desired power output, not ones that have to struggle to achieve it.

So if you still want low mounts maybe twin GT-RS turbos.

personally i would do a HKS T04Z or T04R cutback, or a T-78 29D.

again i must stress that its not just turbos that make power. All the ancilliary equipment needs to be there.

Guest two.06l
what turbo/s would you guys go for to reach ~400KW@W from an RB26

just after peoples opinions

thanks guys

we are making 390awkw out of a hks 2530 kit and thats with pump fuel .boost is 25psi.but you have to remember this is using the full kit not just a turbo upgrade.its for sale if you are interested pm me for details

we are making 390awkw out of a hks 2530 kit and thats with pump fuel .boost is 25psi.but you have to remember this is using the full kit not just a turbo upgrade.its for sale if you are interested pm me for details

What do you mean "full kit" not just the turbo upgrade? And are you still running stock internals?

Guest two.06l
two.06l, was that using stock internals, and pump fuel? I didn't think manifolds made much of a diff on the GTR...

full house engine and head ,also camshaft selection is important with low mount upgrades. i only ever use mobil synergy with nulon pro strength booster ,it has more than proven its worth.also have you seen the difference in the hks manifolds to stock even the naked eye can see the diff. in their ability to flow.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
×
×
  • Create New...