Jump to content
SAU Community

T51R SPL RACING FS (Near New -DIRT CHEAP- $2000) non roller

BMT
 Share

Recommended Posts

BMT Rising Star

BMT

Posted
Posted

Previously on my S15 which produced 477.3 rw kws from a 2 litre. Never used on the road or drag, just dyno and shows. Should produce well over 500kw on a 6 cylinder (RB/JZ motors) In mint condition - almost brand new, lucky to have 1000km on it. NOTE: non roller bearing - RACING VERSION from HKS. The last model before the roller bearing version was brought out.

SKYNUTS Collaborator

SKYNUTS

Posted
Posted
Previously on my S15 which produced 477.3 rw kws from a 2 litre. Never used on the road or drag, just dyno and shows.  Should produce well over 500kw on a 6 cylinder (RB/JZ motors)  In mint condition - almost brand new, lucky to have 1000km on it. NOTE: non roller bearing - RACING VERSION from HKS. The last model before the roller bearing version was brought out.

All i can say is OMG!!!

BMT Rising Star

BMT

Posted
  • Author
Posted
is it just the turbo itself or the whole kit?

CONAN, YOU OBVIOUSLY DONT KNOW WHAT A HKS T51R IS WORTH. A FULL T51R KIT IS WORTH WELL OVER 9K AUD NEW. JUST THE TURBO BUDDY, NO MANIFOLD OR GATE. LOOK AT DEANS POST "T51R SPL BB GTR KIT", HE'S SELLING FOR 6500 ONO 2nd hand.

CONAN Rising Star

CONAN

Posted
Posted

i have a fmic, airfilter, bov, turboback zorst, and bleed valve,

what else do i need to make this turbo work with my system?

i have a rb25det

say i want it to spool quick and hold boost for long, without killing me engine etc.

help would be great

Blitz Grand Master

Blitz

Posted
Posted

CONAN: The HKS T51R really isnt the right turbo to go with your cat back exhaust and air filter. Look at the power rating on this turbo, as per BMT's posts above and it should be clear to you that a full engine build would be required on an RB25 to have any hope of sustaining the power that this turbo can produce.

Merli Grand Master

Merli

Posted
Posted
i have a fmic, airfilter, bov, turboback zorst, and bleed valve,

what else do i need to make this turbo work with my system?

i have a rb25det

say i want it to spool quick and hold boost for long, without killing me engine etc.

help would be great

:D :D :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

95GTST Rising Star

95GTST

Posted
Posted

Remnis, do you have the dyno sheet that your monster produced?

Yeah, what Nick said... this turbo aint for the faint hearted :headspin:

Wouldn't mind seeing one of the more experienced members grab this a get a new project goin :aroused:

s15jspec Newbie

s15jspec

Posted
Posted

hay man i was just wondering i got a s15 getting pistons and rods dun.. got cam gears and cam shafts and other nick nacks.. what sort of lag would i get?

and if you had to sell it would you sell it with the manifold and front/dump pip and wastegate with it ?

BMT Rising Star

BMT

Posted
  • Author
Posted
hay man i was just wondering i got a s15 getting pistons and rods dun.. got cam gears and cam shafts and other nick nacks.. what sort of lag would i get?

and if you had to sell it would you sell it with the manifold and front/dump pip and wastegate with it ?

If you wanted this T51R for your S15 i can sell the turbo and manifold only - dump pipe and front pipe should bolt straight on to your standard one, and the waste gate you will have to source yourself. Lag? mmmm Honestly you will have a hell of a time keeping it on the road. As for lag, with a non stroked sr20 i pushed 477 rw kw @ 1.8 bar at around 8300rpm. This turbo, depending on how big your cams are, will start producing boost at around 4800-5200rpm depending on how good your tuner is. Buy it buy it, i wanna see it street driven daayyym smoke a set of 285s in one burn out.

  • 1 month later...
DICKY Enthusiast

DICKY

Posted
Posted
If you wanted this T51R for your S15 i can sell the turbo and manifold only - dump pipe and front pipe should bolt straight on to your standard one, and the waste gate you will have to source yourself. Lag? mmmm Honestly you will have a hell of a time keeping it on the road. As for lag, with a non stroked sr20 i pushed 477 rw kw @ 1.8 bar at around 8300rpm. This turbo, depending on how big your cams are, will start producing boost at around 4800-5200rpm depending on how good your tuner is. Buy it buy it, i wanna see it street driven daayyym smoke a set of 285s in one burn out.

please e mail me re this turbo [email protected]

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Latest Posts

    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • GTSBoy
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • Duncan
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By Duncan · Posted

      ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
    • Duncan
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, if it idles at 1000+ with the AAC, its not an idle airflow problem. The cold start valve just gives extra air when the engine is cold, but you have enough air without it to idle at 1000. I think you are back to a fuel problem, sorry. Can you see the fuel pressure staying constant or does it drop as the revs drop to a stall?  
×
×
  • Create New...