Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Genuine takata harness

Older style before change over

FIA approval expired in 2011 but still good for Cams events

$175

10291318_10152406631238578_3148903346209

Kaaz 1.5 way s14 6 bolt housing

Noisy/clunky but still works fine, never open wheeled on me

Never had the rear cover, but believe it is stock s14 ratio, 3.something

Full of motul oil and house painted charcoal

$600

IMG_20140417_162515_zpsfdz213pz.jpg

Bmw e60 wheels

5x120 18x8 + 20 / 9 +32 (great for commodore)

tyres on front great, rear need replacing soon

$450

20140414_101257_zpstg8kiett.jpg

Lenso wheels,set 5x114.3

19x8 + 35

one pair tyres ok, other on indicators $350

20140410_134720_zpsvbe7v19x.jpg

S14 front calipers/rotors/pads

stock style rotors

bendex ultimate pads

painted black but has chips

$150

20140225_153059_zpsljlauflr.jpg

C33 clear headlight and parker covers

Hipposleek

Cost $350 before post from japan

Brand New $200

photo10.jpg

S13/14 front pipe, cat flange has been rotated from memory $40

Generic intercooler core with crack on the end tank $30

S14a JDM bar, pretty mangled as above, got dragged under car $40

IMAG0125.jpg

All parts located campbelltown NSW

may post at buyers expense

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Nope, I don't like the look of ND RF, or any ND really, I don't like their faces or arses, why, because of their "modern" lines, the NC, whilst "modernish" has a more rounded shape that I like Well, that's how my overly judgemental eyes see it anyway  
    • Should be more than fine, especially the overall fuel pressure would never exceed 3.5bar (assuming that thing never gets more than 0.5bar of boost in stock form). According to the chart, it's 11amps.
    • I definitely know the first rule here, look first, ask second. I've seen many people get roasted 😂 I found a few diagrams for the RB, but I'm yet to come across one for the VQ. From what I have read, the pump gets the +12v along with the FPCM, and it's the negative wire that gets passed through the resistor to regulate the voltage. So I assume I can just ground the negative wire at the pump to eliminate the FPCM control. But I really wanted to see the VQ circuit diagram first to make sure I understood it correctly. Once the new pump is in I'll do some testing to see how it behaves, and in the meantime, I'll keep looking for a wiring diagram. Thanks for your help mate, your time is greatly appreciated.    
    • Maybe? I have the Supercheap ToolPro low thingo. It has a somewhat smaller diameter lifting "bowl" than you would expect on a workshop grade trolley jack, and a split rubber pad to suit that diameter. It clears the "N1" style skirts I have. Probably wouldn't if the jack's bowl and a suitably larger rubber block were in use. Having said that though.....you only need the rubber block to exist on the inner side of the pinchweld, so could carve away any rubber that fouled the skirt, leaving some there for "insurance" </simples>
    • I used to do that (sills with rubber jack block).. ... then I got side skirts, and there's no way for the jack to actually work there, the jack pad itself on the jack is too big. Is the answer to use a... smaller (?) jack? Hmmm.
×
×
  • Create New...