Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi!

I'm having issues with my fuel pump. The pump does not prime when turning the ignition on. Pump and relay are ok. Relay harness is getting solid +12V all the time.
I'm really confused with all the FPCM and ECU related stuff. How is the system designed to work? What kind of readings am i supposed to get from the ECU pin 18? Now I'm getting constant +12V when ignition is on...
Only way i'm getting the pump to prime is by grounding the black/pink wire from relay to ECU pin 18. This way I can get the car started, but it dies immediately after I take the wire off from the grounding point.
It is hard to try to solve this problem, because I have no idea how the system is supposed to work... :confused:
Are there any relays or fuses apart from the ones in the boot that should be checked?
What is there to do? Is hardwiring the pump going to be a solution?
THANK YOU FOR YOUR HELP!
-Lars
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/442702-r33-gts-t-s2-fuel-pump-problem/
Share on other sites

Hi!

I'm having issues with my fuel pump. The pump does not prime when turning the ignition on. Pump and relay are ok. Relay harness is getting solid +12V all the time.

I'm really confused with all the FPCM and ECU related stuff. How is the system designed to work? What kind of readings am i supposed to get from the ECU pin 18? Now I'm getting constant +12V when ignition is on...

Only way i'm getting the pump to prime is by grounding the black/pink wire from relay to ECU pin 18. This way I can get the car started, but it dies immediately after I take the wire off from the grounding point.

It is hard to try to solve this problem, because I have no idea how the system is supposed to work... :confused:

Are there any relays or fuses apart from the ones in the boot that should be checked?

What is there to do? Is hardwiring the pump going to be a solution?

THANK YOU FOR YOUR HELP!

-Lars

Unplug the harness going into the fuel lump in your boot and test it with a multimeter. When you click the accessories on one of the pins should get power for the first few seconds ... If it's getting power means your pump or wiring in the petrol tank are screwed.

Let us know how you go!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...