Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey i have alot of old school Kicker audio equipment that is all mismatched and i want your opinions on what to do, i will start off by giving you a list of what i have:

1 x Kicker ZR1000 amp

3 x Kicker ZR240 amp

1 x Kicker RS6 Splits 100wrms

1 x Kicker S10L7 Sub 600wrms

Now my main problem is that i carnt get the right amount if amps to my speakers cos of the wrong ohms, here are the specs:

ZR1000

4ohm Stereo 250x2

2ohm Stereo 500x2

1ohm Stereo 350x2

4ohm Bridged 1000x1

2.66ohm Bridged 1000x1

2ohm Bridged 700x1

ZR240

4ohm Stereo 60x2

2ohm Stereo 120x2

1ohm Stereo 150x2

4ohm Bridged 240x1

2.66ohm Bridged 300x1

2ohm Bridged 300x1

My sub is a dual2 unfortinatly so i can make it a 1ohm or a 4ohm sub and as you can see from the specs the closest i could get for the sub is to use 1 channel of the ZR1000 at 1ohms giving it 350w instead of the 600 it needs and the closest i can get my splits is using the ZR240 at 4ohm stereo giving it 60w instead of the 100w they need. Anyone who knows about these ZR series amps know that they are underrated by kicker and come with a birth certificate showing what it actually got when tested so i only want to put what the amp is rated at into them cos they are underrated. For example one of the ZR240 birth certificate has that it put out 373w at 4ohm bridged instead of 240w. I dont have the birth certificate for the ZR1000 unfortinatly, i would have loved to see what it put out.

Anyways as you can see it is all mismatched so what would you suggest i do?

Edited by Mick
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/443057-mismatched-audio-equipment/
Share on other sites

2 new S10L7's at the right ohms would run awesome on the ZR1000, 1 on each channel and i know that this amp would be putting out way more than the 500 stated for each channel just like the birth certificated state on the ZR240.

Another problem is that these old school kicker amps arnt as efficent at the new class d ones so it will draw lots of power from my car

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
    • OK, if it idles at 1000+ with the AAC, its not an idle airflow problem. The cold start valve just gives extra air when the engine is cold, but you have enough air without it to idle at 1000. I think you are back to a fuel problem, sorry. Can you see the fuel pressure staying constant or does it drop as the revs drop to a stall?  
×
×
  • Create New...