Jump to content
SAU Community

HKS Super Drager or A'PEXi N1?

Greg

By Greg,
in General Automotive Discussion

 Share

Recommended Posts

Greg Veteran

Greg

Posted
Posted

Ok this is the deal:

I can save around $200 by getting the N1, but it comes with 60mm piping as opposed to the 65mm piping of the super drager (remember I'm NA).

Also I'm not sure if I'll be happy with the look and sound of the N1. I have heard good things about the sound of the HKS.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/4434-hks-super-drager-or-apexi-n1/
Share on other sites
Adz Experienced

Adz

Posted
Posted

Be careful,

NA engines need backpresure. The biger the exhaust the less backpresure but the higher the flow. Backpresure does not aply to turbo motors due to the fact that althoug backpresure is lost it is no comparison the the amout of power gained due to the increase in overall flow of exhaust gasses alowing the turbo to operate much eayser.

On an NA car the loss of backpresure is much more evident. I had a 2 1/2" exhaust on my 2ltr SSS pulsar (go the SR20DE :) ) *duck*, the take off was crap I would come close to stalling every take off unless I was launching. The revs up top were awsome though. the benifits of this exhaust did not come into effect untill I got to about 5 grand and above. Not to practical for street use. I was told that the optimal size for thiss motor was 2 1/8", 2 1/4" max other wise as I had witnessed the los in backpresure wound makt the motor impractible. The result was fitting the stock exhaust back on and I can tell u thats when the fun started. Much more zippyer. Unless I highly modified the motor (cams, increase compresion, chip, etc) I wold not gain any real benifit from the 2 1/2" exhaust.

This does not mean you cant put a better exhaust on you NA car. Just be careful not to go to big at this stage. I recomend that you speek to a couple exhaust joints. Mufler Man in parhan know their stuff. The problem with the apexi exhausts and HKS exhausts is that they are designed for turbo cars where loss of backpresure is not too important.

Happy hunting,

Adam

DAMQIK GTS-T Community Regular

DAMQIK GTS-T

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by Greg

i won't get that popping sound because i'm NA, right?

yes you would get the popping, even if ya fitted any bigger zorst.

I used to years ago have a gemini after fitting a bigger zorst it suddenly got the pop's mostly happens when backing off while staying in gear.

DAMQIK

KamikazeR33 Grand Master

KamikazeR33

Posted
Posted

i had a standard exhaust on my VB 3.3L commonwhore with extractors and it was like the extractors werent there

when i put on a 2 1/2" zaust the power was more easily avail instead on it trying to breathe out a straw

i dont notice any loss in low down revs or speed ands its got da old tri-matic gearbox :)

maybe it only does it for smaller engines :shake:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      Boost cut after swap(RB25DET NEO) R34

      By Kapr · Posted

      So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • Duncan
      V37 Radiator removal

      By Duncan · Posted

      So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Duncan
      V37 Radiator removal

      By Duncan · Posted

      Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • Duncan
      V37 Radiator removal

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Watermouse
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Watermouse · Posted

      Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...