Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone. In the last few days I acquired a 2003 Stagea NM35 250t RX to keep my '89 Silhouette company ...so i'm a newb to turbo engines and imports ...can't believe how much of a pain the stock Bose system is to repair/replace! ...Anyway, I have noticed rough idle/surging at startup combined with black smoke from exhaust for up to 5 minutes when cold and also after sitting for a few hours ...within 10 minutes the surging subsides ...could it be an oil seal somewhere? It feels like it's going to stall but doesn't. Love my Nissans but in no way a mechanic, though not afraid to give repairs a go. Have already scoured the forums and internet for possible solutions but haven't seen the exact same issue yet ...any ideas anyone? Thanks!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/443647-nm35-surging-idle-at-startup/
Share on other sites

Hey Lom, welcome mate.

These are fairly complicated cars to work on, for most maintenance you will need a scanner to diagnose, especially handy with faults like yours. I would start with making sure the revs are correct, it could help with the stalling to clean the throttle, but be aware, don't move the throttle plate when you do.

Have you checked the plugs at all? What mods have been done? Havs the engine light been on at all?

Probably best to get it checked over by someone who is familiar with the M35, there are a few common faults to look over which most have by now. Things like sway bar links, compression rod bushes, passenger side rocker gaskets and others will most likely need replacement if they haven't been done already. Where are you located?

  • Like 1

Hey Scotty, thanks for your welcome and advice! No mods have been done by me, though i think the previous owner had changed the exhaust. No engine lights have been on at all and haven't checked plugs yet though it was serviced a few days before I purchased - haven't had it even for a week ...tbh, compared to the R31, the engine bay is quite overwhelming! The issue only occurs when the engine has cooled. I'm in Melbourne's northern suburbs ...happen to know of anyone who knows their way around the M35? Cheers mate

You are welcome to bring it down here, i'm in Hampton Park.

Is it something you can get fixed under statutory warranty I wonder? I would be pretty pissed buying a car with problems. Was it through a dealer?

Cheers Scotty, i appreciate it mate ...i have a warranty so i'll give the dealer a call ...was hoping it'd be something simple that i'd missed in my extensive searching that i could fix myself ..aside from this issue, drives well as far as i can tell once engine warm ...but you got me worried now haha

Just a quick update for those interested, had the local mechanic hook it up to the scanner and no errors/faults were detected ...this may be because the engine was warm so will be leaving it overnight next week so he can start when cold ...thinks it's most likely the throttle body that needs a clean as Scotty has already mentioned

Edited by lom

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm normally copping my own abuse from neglecting my daily drivers. "Those suspension bushes will last a bit more", "Don't worry about the oil leak, just keep topping it up". The project cars I'm always doing things slowly on them as I'm wanting them to be done better, and neater, and nicer. Luckily I don't have to deal with 18 year old Matt's "Learning to wire" stuff in the project cars. And there's only one piece of wiring I'm displeased about in the Landcruiser, and it's about to be cut out... However, the box loads of parts that have been going through this place lately for the Landcruiser... Brake pads Brake Rotors Full handbrake overhaul Wheel Bearings Seals Swivel hubs Steering Boxes Half the suspension joints Shocks Air bags (Ones to go in the rear springs for towing) Water pump Timing kit Lower timing case Harmonic Balancer Radiator Lots of other little seals and shits Gas struts for the bonnet New power window switches And god knows what else I've forgotten... Ha ha ha I have my fingers crossed the pinion seals don't start leaking on the diffs, that the transfer case doesn't leak, and the gearbox input shaft doesn't leak, nor the rear main seal. As they're about the only seals I haven't replaced in the driveline! I'm seriously eyeing off buying new caliper rebuild kits front and rear brake calipers... I'll probably recheck all the valve clearances soon too, and hopefully, it should be all good and sweet to haul some long distance trips again!
    • Every time I pull my 3x gauges out of the console and see the crack-addict way that I did the wiring, and I just can't bring myself to tear it all apart and "make it nice", because it is currently working. In fact, the last time I was in there I probably made it worse.
    • The best part is when you own the car long enough that you look back and find your OWN ham fisted amateur shit!
    • The annoying part about neglect, is when you start to replace one thing, and find ten more broken things. Ham fisted monkey repairs you normally only find out about when trying to do something unrelated! Ha ha   Neglect you can kind of anticipate the huge costs to fix it all. Ham fistedness is normally a shock the first time your work on a new old car, as everything "looked" good before.
    • For DBA, check out their guide table here. https://dba.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/Direct_Replacement-Guide-2021.2.pdf   Additionally they have some other guides and info on how to make sure you choose the right pad.
×
×
  • Create New...